Despite the name, sushi isn't the only reason to visit Yasu Sushi Bistro. This stylish, pocket-sized restaurant also happens to feature ultra-buttery wagyu, Japan's most sought-after, exquisite beef. Here, you get to grill it yourself at your table. Other top-notch dishes from the sumibiyaki menu — items cooked over fragrant binchotan charcoal — include sea scallops wrapped in bacon, and tsukune, homemade chicken meatballs coated in a smoky-sweet sauce. As for the sushi bar here, it's a lot more intimate (that is, a lot smaller) than the standard kind — and downright minuscule compared with the sleek expanses at Valley hot spots where the décor threatens to outdazzle the eats — but that only makes the seats that much more desirable, as far as we're concerned. All the better to get face time with talented chef Yasu Hashino, who co-owns the restaurant with Yoshi Natori, the founder of Yoshi's. Hashino has a rep for being ultra-picky about his seafood, and it shows in the freshness and quality of his creations.

Even old favorites, like salmon or yellowtail, are somehow more sublime here. But for a truly thrilling meal, check out the list of specials, where you'll find more unusual offerings like sanma (mackerel pike), aji (Spanish mackerel), and ankimo (monkfish liver pate). Hashino won't buy fish that's more than a few gasps out of the ocean, so go ahead and be adventurous. There's no telling whether it'll be on the menu tomorrow.