Chef Kelly Fletcher may not be the first to make a VLT, but he'd argue that his is absolutely the best. And we wouldn't disagree. He's no stranger to using controversial ingredients — not that he thinks veal should even be in that category. But he loves telling the story about the time he shot a segment with a local television station and was asked to make a few dishes. His last dish used foie gras. Within minutes of the segment airing, Fletcher says, the restaurant phone was ringing with threats and arguments. Good thing he loves it. When he gets pushback from an ingredient, it only fuels his desire to make more. Okay, back to the veal bacon: Fletcher brought in a veal breast (same cut as a pork belly) and kept turning it over, as it reminded him of the cut of pork he used for Tricks' bacon. "So I said, 'Fuck it, we're making veal bacon — no, we're making VLTs!'" says Fletcher. Topped with white truffle aioli, cherry tomatoes, and arugula, and hugged by a pâté à choux bun, Fletcher's VLTs aren't getting any threats from us.