Swing a dead cat in some parts of this town, and you'll hit a Thai restaurant or three. Or nine. There's no shortage of tom yum in these parts, and damned if we can figure out why — but we'll take it. If you want a really special Thai experience, though, head to a part of town where the pickings are slim — east Phoenix. Housed in an old Wendy's (drive-thru still operable for to-go orders!) Sa Bai Modern Thai lives up to its name, offering some new twists on old favorites co-owner Atchara "Holly" Willis enjoyed growing up. Holly is Thai. Her husband is not, but he's got a decade of restaurant management experience, and it shows in the attention to detail in both the food and décor at this sweet little cafe. We are particularly partial to the spicy fried jasmine rice, the pad Thai, and the seafood green curry. Oh, and the tom yum's not to be missed.