Since 1950, Durant's has sat proudly on Central Avenue, its iconic midcentury sign lit up for decades as the city has slowly grown around it. This vibe here is old-school, vaguely Rat Pack-ish: red-leather banquettes, scarlet wallpaper, dim lighting, a back entrance that takes you through the kitchen. (Gangster tales and Hollywood lore abound regarding original owner Jack Durant.) You'll still find Phoenix power players gathering at this chophouse today; Durant's continues to cook a mean 48-ounce porterhouse steak, in addition to slow-roasted prime rib, liver specials, lamb chops, and a sizable selection of seafood. (Another time-warp trademark at Durant's is the gratis relish tray: carrots, celery, green onions, and black olives served over ice.) The wine list is long, but for when-in-Rome reasons, go with a martini or an old fashioned. They pour 'em strong here. New Normal: No takeout or delivery, and guests are asked to call the restaurant directly to make reservations.

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