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With warm, amber-tinted lighting, carved wall-hangings, and a wooden faux roof outside the kitchen, Lemon Grass Thai Café is comfortable, charming, and located in the most unexpected spot: next to a Subway in a pink stucco stripmall. It's worth seeking out, though, for friendly service and fiesty food. Don't be afraid to ask for the spicy stuff -- they'll even make your dishes "Thai hot," if you can handle it. Tangy papaya salad is punchy enough to make you sweat, and the sizzling beef platter will seduce you with creamy peanut sauce. And ignore how full you are at the end of the meal -- after one bite of the homemade coconut ice cream with warm sticky rice, you won't regret ordering dessert.