Tradiciones

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Restaurants | Mexican

1602 E. Roosevelt St. Phoenix, AZ 85006 | Central Phoenix | 602-254-1719

Map | http://www.tradicionesrestaurant.com

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Phoenix Ranch Market’s new sit-down restaurant is almost as entertaining as the grocery store’s over-the-top fiesta. From the singing mariachi trio and waitresses in frilly traditional outfits, to the rustic décor and courtyard, everything at Tradiciones plays into the Mexican village theme. Most of the entrees are solid takes on Sonoran standbys, like enchiladas and burritos, but there are a few surprises. Pollo en mole is slathered in a deliciously bitter chocolate sauce, and camarones rancheros (sautéed shrimp in a garlicky red chile sauce) are unforgettably fiery. Even small details shine, like pretty presentation, good chips and salsa, and fresh tortillas delivered hot out of a basket from a waitress making her rounds. Most surprising of all is melted cheese, or lack thereof. While so many restaurants bury everything in queso, Tradiciones exercises impressive restraint.