BEST RESTAURANT AFTER ALL THESE YEARS 2007 | Rancho Pinot | Food & Drink | Phoenix
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BEST RESTAURANT AFTER ALL THESE YEARS

Rancho Pinot

It seems like Tom and Chrysa Kaufman opened their charming eatery just yesterday, but believe it or not, it's been almost 14 years since this New Times favorite was the buzziest new restaurant in town. Plenty of accolades have followed (including many "Best ofs"), lots of competitors have come and gone, and the Kaufmans are now divorced (chef Chrysa has returned to using her maiden name, Robertson), but their restaurant is just as good as ever, a low-key modern classic where we can still count on the finest ingredients from local farms and a fat wine list filled with primo vintages and a few funny cartoons, too. The menu changes with the seasons, although there are plenty of reliable old favorites that bring us back again and again: crispy stuffed squash blossoms with cherry tomato vinaigrette, succulent grilled lamb chops with flageolet beans, roasted garlic, and preserved lemon, and their famous Nonni's Sunday Chicken, braised with wine and mushrooms. Sometimes change is inevitable, but we're glad that Rancho Pinot is still the same place we've always known and loved.

BEST SOUTHWESTERN RESTAURANT

Sierra Bonita Grill

Inspired by the pioneer ranches of the Old West — and named after southeastern Arizona's Sierra Bonita Ranch, founded by Henry Hooker in 1872 — charming, comfortable Sierra Bonita Grill puts a delicious gourmet spin on our state's culinary traditions. The menu is mostly creative comfort food, with Mexican accents and native Southwestern ingredients. The red chile pork tamale, a heap of melt-in-your-mouth smoked pork and salsa on top of sweet, moist masa, is an edible work of art, while the goat cheese gratin with piquillo-chipotle purée is an addicting contrast between soothing and spicy.

Entrees are just as exciting; try the succulent beef tenderloin with red wine-prickly pear reduction, pecan-crusted trout with tangy orange-maple vinaigrette, or the outstanding buttermilk chicken, spooned with creamy black pepper gravy and served with the best mashed sweet potatoes this side of the Mississippi. For dessert, the bread pudding, drizzled with a punchy sauce of lime and Jack Daniel's whiskey, is so warm and soothing, it'll make you doze off better than a campfire.

BEST SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

Wildfish Seafood Grille

It might sound like heresy to pick Wildfish over Eddie V's, but don't worry — they're related. Wildfish has all the ultra-fresh seafood you'd expect at its big brother restaurant, only it's housed in a sleek, sexy spot at the Scottsdale Waterfront. Reserve a table in the dining room when you're up for a full meal with all the bells and whistles, or grab a seat at the happening bar for a casual feast. (Nothing wrong with calling martinis and raw oysters dinner!)

This isn't run-of-the-mill seafood with lemon and butter, but an exciting menu with Asian touches that enhance the freshness of the day's catch without overwhelming it. Reel in some crisp calamari with cashews and red chile, or a killer crab cake served with spicy remoulade. Entree highlights include steamed Hong Kong-style Chilean sea bass; sea scallops sautéed with macadamia nuts, fresh citrus, and brown butter; and salmon with black bean vinaigrette. If you think there's no such thing as great seafood in the middle of the desert, you clearly haven't been here yet.

BEST UPSCALE STEAKHOUSE

Donovan's Steak and Chop House

Who ever thought that steak could be trendy? From the looks of all the high-end steakhouses cropping up around town, sizzling slabs of beef are, ahem, hotter than ever. But they've always been in style at Donovan's, where all the steaks — the juicy New York strip, buttery filet mignon, and monster 20-ounce porterhouse, among others — are aged, USDA Prime cuts.

Ever wonder why you can't make a steak at home that tastes like this? Well, there's something about a good, 1,800-degree searing that takes the meat from delicious to divine, and Donovan's really knows how to bring the heat. The classy atmosphere, with tuxedo-clad waiters, dark mahogany walls, and elegant artwork everywhere, makes eating here a special occasion, and the hefty wine list and expertly made cocktails make drinking here enjoyable, too. When we're jonesing for the best — and money's no object — Donovan's is at the top of our list.

BEST UPSCALE ITALIAN RESTAURANT

Marcellino Ristorante

Molly Smith
Marcellino Ristorante is a romantic fine-dining spot that transcends its inconspicuous location so well that you'll not only forget you're in a strip mall, you'll wonder whether you've stumbled through a magic portal straight to Italy. The authentic cuisine will suspend your disbelief, too. Sima Verzino will greet you warmly when you arrive, while her husband, chef Marcellino, works his culinary magic in the kitchen. Best known for his exquisite homemade pastas and vibrant sauces — such as light, pillowy gnocchi with tomato sauce and fresh mozzarella, and tender fettuccine with asparagus, tomato, scallions, arugula and ricotta — Marcellino also does an excellent job with fresh seafood and meats. Try the luscious scaloppine al gorgonzola, sautéed veal with creamy gorgonzola sauce, or gamberi affogati, plump, garlicky shrimp sautéed in white wine. And don't forget to order a good Italian wine, if only to toast la dolce vita in Phoenix.

BEST CORNER ITALIAN RESTAURANT

Tesoro Ristorante Italiano

Jamie Peachey
There's nothing wrong with a little downsizing. Filomena and Anthony Di Franco, former owners of the popular but defunct Molise, sold their original restaurant and opened this charming nook two years ago. It seats fewer than half the guests that Molise once did, but that only means you'll get more attention from Filomena herself, along with daughter Ania and son Maurizio, who work in the cozy, rustic dining room.

Back in the kitchen, Anthony and daughter Sonia are cooking up a storm, using recipes from all over Italy, including the Di Francos' native region of Abruzzi. Look for simple, flavorful preparations, perfectly cooked pastas, and light sauces. None of the dishes will hit you over the head with richness — the Pernod cream sauce on the escargot ravioli tastes delicate, and even prosciutto and melted mozzarella don't overwhelm the succulent, sage-kissed saltimbocca. Spinach and ricotta-filled crespelle, and lasagna made with thin, homemade noodles, are also memorable.

You may finish your plate and feel perfectly content, but make way for dessert. After one bite of the luscious tiramisu, you'll thank us.

BEST FRENCH RESTAURANT

Zinc Bistro

David Holden
Zinc Bistro is as seductive as any restaurant you'd find in the City of Lights. Bright and airy by day, with abundant windows, high tin ceilings, crisp white tablecloths, and ample patio seating fit for an afternoon of people-watching, this stylish boîte transforms into an intimate, candlelit dinner destination come sundown. Grab a stool at the restaurant's namesake, a sleek, 25-foot zinc bar, for raw oysters on the half shell, Gruyre fondue, or a cheese platter, or shimmy onto a lipstick-red banquette and get a look at the full menu. Chef Matt Carter's creations successfully walk the fine line between traditional bistro fare and innovative French-inspired dishes — everything from classic moules frites and steak au poivre to spinach-goat cheese ravioli with oxtail and black truffles. When you're ready for your second wind, go for some French press coffee and chocolate soufflé, made with premium Callebaut chocolate. You'll leave feeling giddily satisfied, but sooner or later, don't be surprised to find yourself wanting more. At Zinc Bistro, infatuation is a given.

BEST GREEK RESTAURANT

GreekTown

Lauren Cusimano
Okay, so it's perched on North Seventh Street instead of a rocky cliff by the Mediterranean, but this white-washed taverna is still a great place to find homestyle dishes just like gia gia used to make. We're not sure if there really is a staff of busy Greek grandmothers in the kitchen at GreekTown, although the food sure tastes like it was made from time-honored recipes. Traditional favorites like saganaki (flaming cheese), stuffed grape leaves, and marinated octopus make up the appetizer menu, while entrees run the gamut from Old Country staples like souvlaki and moussaka to more contemporary Greek-style dishes like veal sautéed with artichoke hearts, mushrooms, and white wine sauce. Add that to a friendly, festive atmosphere where wine flows at a Dionysian pace, and you'll be shouting "Opa!" before dessert rolls around. Just don't try throwing any plates.

BEST GERMAN RESTAURANT

Black Forest Mill

New ownership and a fresh makeover have re-energized the former German Corner restaurant, which reopened as Black Forest Mill earlier this year. With a spacious bar area (where there's a sports bar vibe), cozy dining rooms with curtain-draped booths and dark wood paneling, and even a small dance floor (there's live accordion music on Friday and Saturday nights), it's a refreshingly unpretentious — and welcome — addition to the increasingly upscale Arcadia neighborhood. From wiener schnitzel (veal cutlets) to Rheinischer sauerbrauten (Rhineland-style wine-and-vinegar-marinated sirloin with raisin sauce), the menu is chock full of old-fashioned German favorites. Entrees are available at lunchtime, too, but there's plenty of lighter midday fare, including goulash soup and bratwurst sandwiches. Of course, happy hour's the best time to go, when the beer is flowing and the workday's behind you. Relax, order up a frothy German brew, and give a nod to the cute, costume-clad fräulein across the room. Who needs Oktoberfest? The simple things in life are worth celebrating at Black Forest Mill.

BEST VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT

Dragonfly Vietnamese Kitchen

Looks generally aren't everything when it comes to Vietnamese restaurants, which can range from bare bones to dive-y. And that's fine by us, as long as we get our pho fix. But when there's a good-looking newcomer, we notice. Dragonfly has a charming, relaxed cafe atmosphere that sets it apart from a lot of its competitors, but it's more than just a pretty face. The food here is phenomenal — fresh, beautifully presented, and bursting with memorable flavors. Goi cuon, filled with moist, smoked halibut, are a welcome variation on traditional spring rolls, and the summery shredded papaya salad is the perfect balance of tangy, sweet, and spicy. As for the pho — steaming bowls of rice noodle soup that are a Vietnamese staple — Dragonfly's herb-filled broth tastes just right.

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