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  • Article

    Chauvinist Pig-Out - Real men do eat ceviche

    Harvard prez Larry Summers has been excoriated in the past few months by feminists, fellow academics, and the politically correct for suggesting that innate differences in guys and dolls might help explain why there aren't more ladies present in the ...

    by Stephen Lemons on March 24, 2005
  • Article

    Bulgarian Rhapsody

    A lot of what's appealing about greater Phoenix falls into the classic can't-judge-a-book-by-its-cover category. I don't mean the lusher parts of Scottsdale or the desert vistas out by Carefree. I mean just tooling about the city, parts of which, let...

    by Stephen Lemons on March 17, 2005
  • Article

    Shabu Debut - Hot-pot options made for each other

    Ah, the smell of chocolate and meat! Two great tastes that taste great together. Okay, maybe not. Still, this is what my olfactory nerves deal with each time I enter Chandler's 4-week-old Shabu Fondue, a hip, nightclubby eatery that looks like it bel...

    by Stephen Lemons on March 10, 2005
  • Article

    Operation Oggie - Feeling a little Cornish? Here's your spot

    God, I could go for a pint of Stella Artois, or "wife-beater," as it's sometimes referred to in merry ol' England. I'm in a black-and-white box of an eatery, surrounded by photos of Cornish tin miners, reading a biography of Hermann Goering. Halfway ...

    by Stephen Lemons on March 3, 2005
  • Article

    Embarrassment of Riches - Scottsdale 'hood gets another creative supper spot

    Some bastards have all the bloody luck. Say, a year ago today, you signed a lease or bought a residence near 70th Street and Shea Boulevard in Scottsdale. Then you wake up one morning to discover that not only does the cul-de-sac there boast Sushi on...

    by Stephen Lemons on February 24, 2005
  • Article

    Thrill Near Mill - Meatball lovers and wine wonks have a new destination

    Might there be some redemption for what I like to call the swill on and around Mill? As I mentioned in my recent write-up of Mucho Gusto Taqueria and Mexican Bistro, just west of Mill Avenue on University Drive ("Taste Magnet," January 20), Mill Aven...

    by Stephen Lemons on February 17, 2005
  • Article

    Sultans of Shish - Lemons follows Mike Tyson for Russo-Uzbek eats

    I have the funny feeling Mike Tyson knows something I don't. Other than how to land a right cross that'll knock a 230-pound boxer on his ass. See, I've started compiling a little list of the places where I've spotted snapshots of the former world hea...

    by Stephen Lemons on February 10, 2005
  • Article

    Donovan's New Digs - A new entrant in a competitive meat market

    Does Phoenix really need another steak house? That's what pops to mind considering the recent arrival of the swank, upscale Donovan's near 32nd Street and Camelback. I mean, if there's anything you can say definitively about Phoenix, other than the t...

    by Stephen Lemons on February 3, 2005
  • Article

    Watt's Good for You - Chandler gets an Ethiopian restaurant

    Tina Tamrat Hildebrand laughs and smiles shyly when I play reporter rather than gentleman, and ask her age. This fetching little Ethiopian lady could pass for someone in her mid-to-late 20s, but curiosity has yet to kill the culinary critic, which is...

    by Stephen Lemons on January 27, 2005
  • Article

    Taste Magnet - Tempe has the goods, and here's where to find them

    The ker-plunk and whoosh is most pronounced right around the intersection of Tempe's Fifth Street and Mill Avenue, or, as I like to call it, the corner of Hooters and Gordon Biersch. No doubt you've heard it before: the sound of your soul being flush...

    by Stephen Lemons on January 20, 2005
  • Article

    Golden Autumn - Old standby earns longevity

    I'm convinced there's a conspiracy of dunces out there, hell-bent on making the dining experience as consistently staid and by-the-numbers as an effin' copy of Reader's Digest. Scribblers of that pinkie-in-the-air genre known as "food writing" -- the...

    by Stephen Lemons on January 13, 2005
  • Article

    Stingray Stung - These fish need a little more schooling

    Sitting in the dark-orange, Dr. No-like bar at Scottsdale's Stingray Sushi, drinking a tall glass of Kirin draft and watching the promising Phoenix Suns get spanked by San Antonio recently, it occurred to me that I probably feel the same way toward S...

    by Stephen Lemons on January 6, 2005
  • Article

    My Lucky Seven - Tastes of 2004 that stuck to the ribs

    On the whole, 2004 has been a good year for this portly penman, as enjoyable dining experiences have easily outweighed poor ones. Indeed, what stays with me, in the form of fat cells as well as recollections, are the great meals I've had on my variou...

    by Stephen Lemons on December 30, 2004
  • Article

    Picking St. Nix - A little supping for Christmas

    What a colossal difference a second visit to a restaurant can make. See, my modus operandi as a critic is generally as follows: I pick a place I want to review, then I dine there at least twice, usually with guests, so I can nibble off their plates u...

    by Stephen Lemons on December 23, 2004
  • Article

    Bada Bomb - An offer you can refuse

    Everyone knows about Pavlov's dogs: those canines that helped Russian scientist Ivan Pavlov demonstrate that the natural flow of saliva in Sparky's mouth could be induced by external stimuli, like a bell ringing. Pavlov referred to this as a "conditi...

    by Stephen Lemons on December 16, 2004
  • Article

    South Mountain Mojo - Mexican cuisine done right at Coyoacn

    Hey, I may come off in print as a bloated narcissist, but I do get my comeuppance often enough. Take, for example, a question I had for a colleague after visiting the six-month-old Coyoacn steak house on South Central Avenue. The restaurant sits nea...

    by Stephen Lemons on December 9, 2004
  • Article

    Meet Cute - Dueling luncheonettes

    It's a fine Tuesday morning, and I'm seated at a table in Matt's Big Breakfast, the new diner that opened a month ago on First Street and McKinley, next to the Coronado Hotel, in the same spot where the eatery Chez Bubba used to do business. The sun ...

    by Stephen Lemons on December 2, 2004
  • Article

    Grazie, Radda - Peace and plenty at new Tuscan joint

    I've always loathed Thanksgiving, so don't expect some column from me telling you how to cook a turkey with a beer can stuck up its butt, or where to snarf the best stuffing in the Valley. Everything about the holiday nauseates me: the enforced famil...

    by Stephen Lemons on November 25, 2004
  • Article

    Korean Feastin' - Seoul food

    Folks call and write me with some amazing requests. Usually, I do my best to reply in a timely manner, but occasionally, the inquiries veer into the asinine zone, in which case, I may never respond. For example, if you're a PR flack who wonders why I...

    by Stephen Lemons on November 18, 2004
  • Article

    The Prince of Pasta - Mangia at Marcellino Ristorante

    I've been jonesing of late for some really excellent house-made pasta. No doubt what brought this on was my slightly disappointing visit a couple of weeks back to the James Hotel's Fiamma Trattoria, where it seemed like everything but its house-made ...

    by Stephen Lemons on November 11, 2004
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