Restaurant Reviews

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Seoul Survivors Seoul Survivors
Lemons picks his hypothetical "last meal"
, September 23, 2004
What would you eat if it were your last night on Earth, and you could have just about anything you wanted? That's the hypothetical dilemma I've... More >>
Tomato Head Tomato Head
Valley chefs need to take a lesson from Redendo's
, September 16, 2004
It's one of the eternal mysteries of dining in the Valley, one I've yet to solve despite many a sleepless night spent contemplating same: Why are... More >>
Finding Nemo Finding Nemo
There's something fishy at Eddie V's
, September 09, 2004
I'm no urban planner, and Lord knows I have no inclination to be one. But whenever I hear my fellow diehard metropolitans talking up the Holy... More >>
Baghdad Bound Baghdad Bound
Where's the beef kebab? At Baghdad Restaurant, of course
, September 02, 2004
I've always wanted to summer in Baghdad, and now at last I can. No, silly, I'm not joining the Army National Guard. I may be the size of John... More >>
Saigon in Scottsdale Saigon in Scottsdale
Pho sure: Vietnamese eats hit the spot
, August 26, 2004
Nineteenth-century journalist, poet and author Charles Pierre Monselet once stated that "a true gastronome should always be ready to eat, just as... More >>
Bravo,  Blac-a-Zoli Bravo, Blac-a-Zoli
New eatery good to go
, August 19, 2004
One dilemma I face as a restaurant reviewer is how long of a grace period I should allow an infant establishment before writing about its fare.... More >>
Catfish Connoisseurs Catfish Connoisseurs
"Bobby C's serves the tastiest catfish in Maricopa County"
, August 12, 2004
Having spent my formative years in the Land Time Forgot (i.e., the South), soul food is as dear to me as pasta is to the Italians. How... More >>
Near-Perfect Padre Near-Perfect Padre
"Go on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday night, you'll think you've crashed someone else's swell shindig."
, August 05, 2004
Before I dive into this week's review, I should take a moment to reply to some of the correspondence I receive on a regular basis. To the female... More >>
Bamboo, Pee-Yew! Bamboo, Pee-Yew!
"All items were edible, but beyond that, completely lacking in any flavor or pizzazz."
, July 29, 2004
A colleague of mine left me a copy of a certain publication the other day with the attached note, "Well, I guess someone feels threatened." The... More >>
Java House Java House
Asian delicacies dominate the menu at Lotus Asian Cafe
, July 22, 2004
Burgs like Snottsdale and Parasite Valley may get all the kudos when it comes to living arrangements, but were I run out of central Phoenix on a... More >>
White Elephant White Elephant
Sassi serves up swanky ambience and appetizers, but seems to fall off the (main) course
, July 15, 2004
Descending from Pinnacle Peak the other day, after a repast at Sassi, the new, resort-like restaurant fashioned to resemble an Italian villa, the... More >>
Billy Goat Gruff Billy Goat Gruff
Get gluttonous with goat meat menu items
, July 08, 2004
Those of you old enough to have lived through any part of the Cold War -- or to have suffered through a political conversation with a devout... More >>
Savory Seoul Savory Seoul
Beef-a-licious BBQ, Korean-style
, July 01, 2004
I was in Tempe last week, sitting in a cafe and flipping through my recent purchase from a nearby bookshop of a rare copy of Valentine Penrose's... More >>
Smokin' Sandwiches Smokin' Sandwiches
Stephen Lemons hits a new joint
, June 24, 2004
So I was over at Mikey's the other day, doing bong hits and watching episode after episode of Cartoon Network's Aqua Teen Hunger Force, which... More >>
Mediocre Mangia Mediocre Mangia
Sauce lacks sass
, June 17, 2004
One of the joys of writing a weekly column for New Times is that I'm pretty much given carte blanche to cut through the ca-ca that other news... More >>
Kings of Kebab Kings of Kebab
Stephen Lemons sings the praises of Turkish cuisine
, June 10, 2004
I suppose most folks have their own, somewhat flattering image of themselves, and I am no different in this regard. In my mind's eye, I'm a cross... More >>
Psycho Killer Psycho Killer
Zest invites no insults
, June 03, 2004
Occasionally, I feel like the Ted Bundy of food critics, trawling sundry restaurant rows here in Phoenix, looking for my next victim. It has... More >>
Fish Tales Fish Tales
Seafood spectacle: wading through the oceanic buffet at Serrano's
, May 27, 2004
Last week, I was perusing this book Bizarrism, a compilation of "Strange Lives, Cults and Celebrated Lunacy" by Aussie author Chris Mikul, when I... More >>
Brazilian Bust Brazilian Bust
Brazeiro's guests will be getting only a watered-down Rio, at best
, May 20, 2004
I have been very, very spoiled in the past when it comes to churrascaria, or Brazilian barbecue. I didn't realize how spoiled until I visited the... More >>
Dough Boy Dough Boy
Our foodie finds the top five pizza spots in town
, May 13, 2004
Los Angeles may have the ocean, a temperate climate, Hollywood starlets and the Lakers, but the Valley cleans La-La Land's proverbial clock when... More >>
Browne's New Bag Browne's New Bag
Our foodie loves the vibe of Richardson Browne's Rokerij
, May 06, 2004
I'd been sitting on the fence for the past week about Rokerij, Richardson Browne's classy new chop shop, when I happened to take a look at the... More >>
Clandestine Curry Clandestine Curry
A Taj Mahal of tasty Indian treats is hidden in the Best Western on Central
, April 29, 2004
One of the bonuses of dwelling in a real metropolis is having a reputable Indian eatery within reasonable distance of one's digs. When I resided... More >>
Sorry, Kermit Sorry, Kermit
Our critic finds a piece of Paris in the Valley
, April 22, 2004
Death and taxes. The two unavoidables of human existence had me knee-deep in the dumps. It happened after I visited my local H&R Block on... More >>
Saucy Servings Saucy Servings
For less than $20, even a poor scribe can afford to eat like a Renaissance pope
, April 15, 2004
Let me share a little secret with you: Journalists love to eat and eat well, but we're also notoriously cheap. In part, this has to do with the... More >>
Bistro Bland Bistro Bland
High hopes for Uptown 713 were dashed by horrid service and mediocre chow
, April 08, 2004
Allow me to address a theme that runs through a number of missives I've received from my detractors, most of whom have this ass-backwards notion... More >>
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