Restaurant Reviews

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Tepid Tapas Tepid Tapas
Putting the pain in Spain
, July 21, 2005
If I were not duty-bound to visit a restaurant more than once before reviewing it, I never would have returned to Scottsdale's Tapas after my... More >>
Urban Legends Urban Legends
Continents get cozy
, July 14, 2005
Does anyone else cringe when they hear of Mayor Phil Gordon's front porch benches and how they're now greeting visitors at Sky Harbor Airport?... More >>
Crazy Love Crazy Love
Dude meets ranch
, July 07, 2005
I feel like kicking up my heels à la Tom Cruise and pumping my fist for joy. That's right, I'm in love, and I don't care how dirty I get Oprah's... More >>
Reality Check Reality Check
Better be good
, June 30, 2005
Chef Christopher Gross never misses a lick when it comes to reminding you of all the plaudits he's picked up in his day. There's a fairly... More >>
Somali Sublime Somali Sublime
They've got your goat
, June 23, 2005
Dining in Phoenix sometimes feels like going toe-to-toe with Torquemada during the Spanish Inquisition, or at least Monty Python in that skit... More >>
Sammy Time Sammy Time
Fresh pasture for downtown grazing
, June 16, 2005
Call me the Benedict Arnold of Phoenix boosterism for saying so, but the thought of light rail does not titillate me. Nor does the prospect of... More >>
Wing Nuts Wing Nuts
Rival eateries play chicken
, June 09, 2005
Like the late, great Rodney Dangerfield, Buffalo wings get no respect, no respect at all. The name "Buffalo" hardly engenders esteem, as that... More >>
The Sweet Life The Sweet Life
So many flavors, so little time
, June 02, 2005
Whenever I visit The Gelato Spot, that new purveyor of Italian "ice cream" across from Zen 32 at 32nd Street and Camelback Road, I'm often... More >>
Pie-Faced Pie-Faced
Pizza guy gets lucky
, May 26, 2005
Pizza is one of those foods I enjoy too much to actually indulge in very often. Once the feeding frenzy begins in earnest, I'll go through an... More >>
Sausage Fest Sausage Fest
It was the wurst of times
, May 19, 2005
For this food critic, there's nothing quite as satisfying as gnawing on a hunk of butt while perusing the Scottsdale-based Serbian Times and... More >>
Rule, Britannia! Rule, Britannia!
Cod is great
, May 12, 2005
As any Birkenstocks-clad liberal arts major will tell you ad nauseam if you let him, the word "empire" is a loaded term, a Pandora's box of... More >>
Karma and Camus Karma and Camus
The cure for existential munchies
, May 05, 2005
I'm fairly skeptical about the concept of some sort of cosmic justice, whether it be a benevolent graybeard on a throne up in heaven, or... More >>
Colombian Chow-Down Colombian Chow-Down
You'll have a lot on your plato
, April 28, 2005
Like most foodies, I'm fond of almost all ethnic cuisines, and I'm always heartened to hear of another attempting a toe-hold in greater Phoenix.... More >>
Calf-Fry Castle Calf-Fry Castle
Venerable feed lot reopens
, April 21, 2005
I may pique the interest of Michael Jackson fans by saying so, but who knew that the, uh, cojónes of young calves would make such a... More >>
So-So Sushi So-So Sushi
A big fish story
, April 14, 2005
Submitted for your consideration: the worst sushi I've had since I made the mistake of walking into a Todai many years back. Sushi that makes... More >>
Lust for Laab Lust for Laab
Fresh flavors restore our critic's faith in food
, April 07, 2005
We need some new rules here on the Ponderosa, and the first one is that for every bad meal I have to endure, my belly deserves to be placated... More >>
Road Kill Rules Road Kill Rules
Off-track in more ways than one
, March 31, 2005
Is it possible to predict a lousy dining experience as soon as you enter a chow house, without a peek at the bill of fare? You betcha. For... More >>
Chauvinist Pig-Out Chauvinist Pig-Out
Real men do eat ceviche
, March 24, 2005
Harvard prez Larry Summers has been excoriated in the past few months by feminists, fellow academics, and the politically correct for suggesting... More >>
Bulgarian Rhapsody Bulgarian Rhapsody
, March 17, 2005
A lot of what's appealing about greater Phoenix falls into the classic can't-judge-a-book-by-its-cover category. I don't mean the lusher parts of... More >>
Shabu Debut Shabu Debut
Hot-pot options made for each other
, March 10, 2005
Ah, the smell of chocolate and meat! Two great tastes that taste great together. Okay, maybe not. Still, this is what my olfactory nerves deal... More >>
Operation Oggie Operation Oggie
Feeling a little Cornish? Here's your spot
, March 03, 2005
God, I could go for a pint of Stella Artois, or "wife-beater," as it's sometimes referred to in merry ol' England. I'm in a black-and-white box... More >>
Embarrassment of Riches Embarrassment of Riches
Scottsdale 'hood gets another creative supper spot
, February 24, 2005
Some bastards have all the bloody luck. Say, a year ago today, you signed a lease or bought a residence near 70th Street and Shea Boulevard in... More >>
Thrill Near Mill Thrill Near Mill
Meatball lovers and wine wonks have a new destination
, February 17, 2005
Might there be some redemption for what I like to call the swill on and around Mill? As I mentioned in my recent write-up of Mucho Gusto Taqueria... More >>
Sultans of Shish Sultans of Shish
Lemons follows Mike Tyson for Russo-Uzbek eats
, February 10, 2005
I have the funny feeling Mike Tyson knows something I don't. Other than how to land a right cross that'll knock a 230-pound boxer on his ass.... More >>
Donovan's New Digs Donovan's New Digs
A new entrant in a competitive meat market
, February 03, 2005
Does Phoenix really need another steak house? That's what pops to mind considering the recent arrival of the swank, upscale Donovan's near 32nd... More >>
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