Restaurant Reviews

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Donovan's New Digs Donovan's New Digs
A new entrant in a competitive meat market
, February 03, 2005
Does Phoenix really need another steak house? That's what pops to mind considering the recent arrival of the swank, upscale Donovan's near 32nd... More >>
Watt's Good for You Watt's Good for You
Chandler gets an Ethiopian restaurant
, January 27, 2005
Tina Tamrat Hildebrand laughs and smiles shyly when I play reporter rather than gentleman, and ask her age. This fetching little Ethiopian lady... More >>
Taste Magnet Taste Magnet
Tempe has the goods, and here's where to find them
, January 20, 2005
The ker-plunk and whoosh is most pronounced right around the intersection of Tempe's Fifth Street and Mill Avenue, or, as I like to call it, the... More >>
Golden Autumn Golden Autumn
Old standby earns longevity
, January 13, 2005
I'm convinced there's a conspiracy of dunces out there, hell-bent on making the dining experience as consistently staid and by-the-numbers as an... More >>
Stingray Stung Stingray Stung
These fish need a little more schooling
, January 06, 2005
Sitting in the dark-orange, Dr. No-like bar at Scottsdale's Stingray Sushi, drinking a tall glass of Kirin draft and watching the promising... More >>
My Lucky Seven My Lucky Seven
Tastes of 2004 that stuck to the ribs
, December 30, 2004
On the whole, 2004 has been a good year for this portly penman, as enjoyable dining experiences have easily outweighed poor ones. Indeed, what... More >>
Picking St. Nix Picking St. Nix
A little supping for Christmas
, December 23, 2004
What a colossal difference a second visit to a restaurant can make. See, my modus operandi as a critic is generally as follows: I pick a place I... More >>
Bada Bomb Bada Bomb
An offer you can refuse
, December 16, 2004
Everyone knows about Pavlov's dogs: those canines that helped Russian scientist Ivan Pavlov demonstrate that the natural flow of saliva in... More >>
South Mountain Mojo South Mountain Mojo
Mexican cuisine done right at Coyoacán
, December 09, 2004
Hey, I may come off in print as a bloated narcissist, but I do get my comeuppance often enough. Take, for example, a question I had for a... More >>
Meet Cute Meet Cute
Dueling luncheonettes
, December 02, 2004
It's a fine Tuesday morning, and I'm seated at a table in Matt's Big Breakfast, the new diner that opened a month ago on First Street and... More >>
Grazie, Radda Grazie, Radda
Peace and plenty at new Tuscan joint
, November 25, 2004
I've always loathed Thanksgiving, so don't expect some column from me telling you how to cook a turkey with a beer can stuck up its butt, or... More >>
Korean Feastin' Korean Feastin'
Seoul food
, November 18, 2004
Folks call and write me with some amazing requests. Usually, I do my best to reply in a timely manner, but occasionally, the inquiries veer into... More >>
The Prince of Pasta The Prince of Pasta
Mangia at Marcellino Ristorante
, November 11, 2004
I've been jonesing of late for some really excellent house-made pasta. No doubt what brought this on was my slightly disappointing visit a couple... More >>
Delux and De-lovely Delux and De-lovely
Great grub to be had while soccer moms snooze
, November 04, 2004
I am terribly pained that all the fuss concerning the Boston Red Sox, the World Series, and the Curse of the Bambino is finally over. Not that I... More >>
Fat-tushy Fetish Fat-tushy Fetish
Fattoush serves up stellar lamb in record time
, October 28, 2004
In my line of work, a double-wide backside seems to come with the territory. I'm sure there are certain female food critics in Arizona whose... More >>
Fiamma Fantabulous Fiamma Fantabulous
At the James' restaurant, the pastries are hot, but the pasta's not
, October 21, 2004
Whenever I wax homesick for La-la Land, I need only stop by Scottsdale's James Hotel for a fix of that über-modern, über-sophisticated vibe that... More >>
Brazil Nuts Brazil Nuts
Superlative churrascaria in the enchanted kingdom of Ahwatukee
, October 14, 2004
I recently read online that the ugliest man in Hollywood, and a piss-poor actor to boot, Billy Bob Thornton, badmouthed the immortal Bard,... More >>
Elk Lodge Elk Lodge
We bring our feed bag to the Flat Iron
, October 07, 2004
My initial experience dining at Flat Iron Rotisserie and Grill, the new, Southwestern-themed establishment on Indian School Road, can be compared... More >>
Queen of Siam Queen of Siam
, September 30, 2004
As you may have gleaned from perusing this space previously, I take a dim view of conventional wisdom and the morons who spout it. Al Pacino's... More >>
Seoul Survivors Seoul Survivors
Lemons picks his hypothetical "last meal"
, September 23, 2004
What would you eat if it were your last night on Earth, and you could have just about anything you wanted? That's the hypothetical dilemma I've... More >>
Tomato Head Tomato Head
Valley chefs need to take a lesson from Redendo's
, September 16, 2004
It's one of the eternal mysteries of dining in the Valley, one I've yet to solve despite many a sleepless night spent contemplating same: Why are... More >>
Finding Nemo Finding Nemo
There's something fishy at Eddie V's
, September 09, 2004
I'm no urban planner, and Lord knows I have no inclination to be one. But whenever I hear my fellow diehard metropolitans talking up the Holy... More >>
Baghdad Bound Baghdad Bound
Where's the beef kebab? At Baghdad Restaurant, of course
, September 02, 2004
I've always wanted to summer in Baghdad, and now at last I can. No, silly, I'm not joining the Army National Guard. I may be the size of John... More >>
Saigon in Scottsdale Saigon in Scottsdale
Pho sure: Vietnamese eats hit the spot
, August 26, 2004
Nineteenth-century journalist, poet and author Charles Pierre Monselet once stated that "a true gastronome should always be ready to eat, just as... More >>
Bravo,  Blac-a-Zoli Bravo, Blac-a-Zoli
New eatery good to go
, August 19, 2004
One dilemma I face as a restaurant reviewer is how long of a grace period I should allow an infant establishment before writing about its fare.... More >>
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