Restaurant Reviews

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Watt's Good for You Watt's Good for You
Chandler gets an Ethiopian restaurant
, January 27, 2005
Tina Tamrat Hildebrand laughs and smiles shyly when I play reporter rather than gentleman, and ask her age. This fetching little Ethiopian lady... More >>
Taste Magnet Taste Magnet
Tempe has the goods, and here's where to find them
, January 20, 2005
The ker-plunk and whoosh is most pronounced right around the intersection of Tempe's Fifth Street and Mill Avenue, or, as I like to call it, the... More >>
Golden Autumn Golden Autumn
Old standby earns longevity
, January 13, 2005
I'm convinced there's a conspiracy of dunces out there, hell-bent on making the dining experience as consistently staid and by-the-numbers as an... More >>
Stingray Stung Stingray Stung
These fish need a little more schooling
, January 06, 2005
Sitting in the dark-orange, Dr. No-like bar at Scottsdale's Stingray Sushi, drinking a tall glass of Kirin draft and watching the promising... More >>
My Lucky Seven My Lucky Seven
Tastes of 2004 that stuck to the ribs
, December 30, 2004
On the whole, 2004 has been a good year for this portly penman, as enjoyable dining experiences have easily outweighed poor ones. Indeed, what... More >>
Picking St. Nix Picking St. Nix
A little supping for Christmas
, December 23, 2004
What a colossal difference a second visit to a restaurant can make. See, my modus operandi as a critic is generally as follows: I pick a place I... More >>
Bada Bomb Bada Bomb
An offer you can refuse
, December 16, 2004
Everyone knows about Pavlov's dogs: those canines that helped Russian scientist Ivan Pavlov demonstrate that the natural flow of saliva in... More >>
South Mountain Mojo South Mountain Mojo
Mexican cuisine done right at Coyoacán
, December 09, 2004
Hey, I may come off in print as a bloated narcissist, but I do get my comeuppance often enough. Take, for example, a question I had for a... More >>
Meet Cute Meet Cute
Dueling luncheonettes
, December 02, 2004
It's a fine Tuesday morning, and I'm seated at a table in Matt's Big Breakfast, the new diner that opened a month ago on First Street and... More >>
Grazie, Radda Grazie, Radda
Peace and plenty at new Tuscan joint
, November 25, 2004
I've always loathed Thanksgiving, so don't expect some column from me telling you how to cook a turkey with a beer can stuck up its butt, or... More >>
Korean Feastin' Korean Feastin'
Seoul food
, November 18, 2004
Folks call and write me with some amazing requests. Usually, I do my best to reply in a timely manner, but occasionally, the inquiries veer into... More >>
The Prince of Pasta The Prince of Pasta
Mangia at Marcellino Ristorante
, November 11, 2004
I've been jonesing of late for some really excellent house-made pasta. No doubt what brought this on was my slightly disappointing visit a couple... More >>
Delux and De-lovely Delux and De-lovely
Great grub to be had while soccer moms snooze
, November 04, 2004
I am terribly pained that all the fuss concerning the Boston Red Sox, the World Series, and the Curse of the Bambino is finally over. Not that I... More >>
Fat-tushy Fetish Fat-tushy Fetish
Fattoush serves up stellar lamb in record time
, October 28, 2004
In my line of work, a double-wide backside seems to come with the territory. I'm sure there are certain female food critics in Arizona whose... More >>
Fiamma Fantabulous Fiamma Fantabulous
At the James' restaurant, the pastries are hot, but the pasta's not
, October 21, 2004
Whenever I wax homesick for La-la Land, I need only stop by Scottsdale's James Hotel for a fix of that über-modern, über-sophisticated vibe that... More >>
Brazil Nuts Brazil Nuts
Superlative churrascaria in the enchanted kingdom of Ahwatukee
, October 14, 2004
I recently read online that the ugliest man in Hollywood, and a piss-poor actor to boot, Billy Bob Thornton, badmouthed the immortal Bard,... More >>
Elk Lodge Elk Lodge
We bring our feed bag to the Flat Iron
, October 07, 2004
My initial experience dining at Flat Iron Rotisserie and Grill, the new, Southwestern-themed establishment on Indian School Road, can be compared... More >>
Queen of Siam Queen of Siam
, September 30, 2004
As you may have gleaned from perusing this space previously, I take a dim view of conventional wisdom and the morons who spout it. Al Pacino's... More >>
Seoul Survivors Seoul Survivors
Lemons picks his hypothetical "last meal"
, September 23, 2004
What would you eat if it were your last night on Earth, and you could have just about anything you wanted? That's the hypothetical dilemma I've... More >>
Tomato Head Tomato Head
Valley chefs need to take a lesson from Redendo's
, September 16, 2004
It's one of the eternal mysteries of dining in the Valley, one I've yet to solve despite many a sleepless night spent contemplating same: Why are... More >>
Finding Nemo Finding Nemo
There's something fishy at Eddie V's
, September 09, 2004
I'm no urban planner, and Lord knows I have no inclination to be one. But whenever I hear my fellow diehard metropolitans talking up the Holy... More >>
Baghdad Bound Baghdad Bound
Where's the beef kebab? At Baghdad Restaurant, of course
, September 02, 2004
I've always wanted to summer in Baghdad, and now at last I can. No, silly, I'm not joining the Army National Guard. I may be the size of John... More >>
Saigon in Scottsdale Saigon in Scottsdale
Pho sure: Vietnamese eats hit the spot
, August 26, 2004
Nineteenth-century journalist, poet and author Charles Pierre Monselet once stated that "a true gastronome should always be ready to eat, just as... More >>
Bravo,  Blac-a-Zoli Bravo, Blac-a-Zoli
New eatery good to go
, August 19, 2004
One dilemma I face as a restaurant reviewer is how long of a grace period I should allow an infant establishment before writing about its fare.... More >>
Catfish Connoisseurs Catfish Connoisseurs
"Bobby C's serves the tastiest catfish in Maricopa County"
, August 12, 2004
Having spent my formative years in the Land Time Forgot (i.e., the South), soul food is as dear to me as pasta is to the Italians. How... More >>
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