Restaurant Reviews

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Sauvignon Blank Sauvignon Blank
I'd be better off stopping at Safeway and grabbing a bottle ofwine and a deli tray
, November 13, 2003
W.C. Fields didn't live long enough to see the modern incarnation of the wine bar, but he had some great thoughts on grapes and grub. "I cook... More >>
Weird to the Wise Weird to the Wise
Hau Vietnamese cuisine is done
, November 06, 2003
The kitchen is out of frogs' legs. I'm disappointed. Frog is one of my favorite Vietnamese dishes. My dining companion is wrinkling his nose at... More >>
A Love Bovine A Love Bovine
Calico Cow's comfort menu of old-time favorites is as good as itgets
, October 30, 2003
Let's get one thing straight. I've got strict expectations for high-end eateries -- spotless ambiance, spotless service, and, of course, spotless... More >>
A Plateful  of Prada A Plateful of Prada
Dining has become so darn pretentious, like a version of "ChefsGone Wild"
, October 23, 2003
Once upon a time, in restaurants far and wide, food was food. There was Italian, Chinese, Mexican . . . but we pretty much always knew what we... More >>
Veni Vida Vici Veni Vida Vici
A former Valley hot spot makes a resurgence
, October 16, 2003
The soup is fashioned from little more than cilantro, garlic, potatoes, avocado and chicken stock. It's entirely simple. Still, the concoction... More >>
The Soul of Phoenix The Soul of Phoenix
Comfort food in the Valley is finger lickin' good
, October 09, 2003
Letters, I get letters. Usually, if a reader takes the time to write or call, he's pretty passionate about his food. It's impressive how worked... More >>
Cafe Roulette Cafe Roulette
Fine food and casinos rarely mix well in the Valley
, October 02, 2003
The waitress at The Willows slipped up. Working me at the new restaurant inside Casino Arizona-McKellips, she showed her hand too quickly. She... More >>
Dysfunction Junction Dysfunction Junction
The good, the bad, and the ugly end up on the table
, September 25, 2003
Barmouche has always been unpredictable. The stylish bistro debuted with an offbeat menu in 1999, emphasizing French cafe cuisine along with a... More >>
Eat, Drink and Be Mariachi Eat, Drink and Be Mariachi
The atmosphere just screams fiesta
, September 18, 2003
I have a sudden fascination with mariachi music. I used to think I hated the stuff, after spending too many years in Rocky Point bars being... More >>
Fly-By Right Fly-By Right
Now that's food good enough to carry-on any flight
, September 11, 2003
I'm thinking our nation's airline security force may have a new threat on the horizon. It's called food. Forget sharp objects and explosives;... More >>
Hawaii to Go Hawaii to Go
Pacific cuisine washes up on the shores of the Valley
, September 04, 2003
The guy on the other end of the phone was bitter. He'd just come from lunch at a fast-food hamburger joint, and was ranting over what he... More >>
Where Foods Russian Where Foods Russian
While some things may look a little unorthodox, this food is blessed by higher powers
, August 28, 2003
I have to respect the dedication of a kosher kitchen. At first, the basic requirement seems simple: Milk must be kept separate from meat. But... More >>
A Perfect Storm A Perfect Storm
Unbridled, unexpected, sometimes unsettling, but always exciting
, August 21, 2003
The sky is rumbling, in that deep, dark voice. Which, in the language of the Valley, means monsoon season has arrived. The thunder is teasing... More >>
Hooked on Craic Hooked on Craic
An Irish pub with unbelievable dishes
, August 14, 2003
Fibber Magees, see, is an Irish restaurant and pub. It celebrates the Celtic concept of "craic" (pronounced "crack"), meaning a fun,... More >>
Fate Accompli Fate Accompli
There are few more exciting restaurants in our Valley
, August 07, 2003
Chef Johnny Chu stops by our table for a visit. He was impressed by the quantity of food my party ordered, he says, and wants to see what in the... More >>
French Fried French Fried
Citron is taking August "off." I won't be back in September.
, July 31, 2003
Perhaps it's not fair of me to be so disappointed with Café Citron. It could be that I'm too jealous of one of my friends, he being a very lucky... More >>
Sugo Wrestling Sugo Wrestling
Each go around just kept getting better
, July 24, 2003
When I first looked up the Italian definition of "sugo," the translation I got was "gravy." Which is curious, because Sugo, the latest hot... More >>
Wallet World Wallet World
Here's a meal well worth its high price
, July 17, 2003
A friend of mine has a curious pastime. He likes to go out with a large group of friends to pricey restaurants, and, when the bill arrives, play... More >>
West Side Glory West Side Glory
A fantasy come to life
, July 10, 2003
Two-month-old Hoffman's at 57th looks so wonderland adorable, I want to bring everyone I know to show it off as if it were my own private cafe. ... More >>
Persian Gulp Persian Gulp
Taste the flavors of Caspian without paying for airfare
, July 03, 2003
My friends and I were driving around Los Angeles the other weekend, in search of, what else, food. It's mucky hot in Phoenix these days, I hadn't... More >>
Number Crunching Number Crunching
Calculating tasty calorie, after tasty calorie
, June 26, 2003
My brain hurts. I've been trying to figure out what to have for dinner. Normally, such a decision would be no big deal: I've always been a... More >>
Breakfast Club Breakfast Club
Two of the Valley's premier places for morning munching
, June 19, 2003
My sister Elisabeth was wearing a tee shirt imprinted with the phrase "Breakfast of Champions." It was a cute thing, appliquéd with cartoons of... More >>
Resorting to Anchovies Resorting to Anchovies
The clean, sparkling flavors that epitomize regional Italian cuisine
, June 12, 2003
I've just realized that I've never eaten a fresh anchovy before. That's no great surprise to many people, I'm sure -- "no anchovies, please" is a... More >>
Going, Going, Gonzo Going, Going, Gonzo
Food fit for a Muppet
, June 05, 2003
Whether I feel sort of silly sitting in what's supposed to be a nice, grown-up restaurant eating a platter of mini corn dogs is not really the... More >>
Chasin' Player in Bogot&#225 Chasin' Player in Bogotá
Firing-up traditions of Colombia
, May 29, 2003
Note to my editor: I worked really hard on this article. It's about Colombian food, so I flew to the South American country's capital, Bogotá. I... More >>
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