Restaurant Reviews

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ROMAN HOLIDAY
, August 12, 1992
La Fontanella, 4231 East Indian School, Phoenix, 955-1213. Hours: Lunch, Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner, Tuesday through... More >>
ACHY BREAKY STEAK
, August 05, 1992
Handlebar-J, 7116 East Becker, Scottsdale, 948-0110. Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 12:30... More >>
PLEASE, SIR, CAN I HAVE SUMO?
, July 29, 1992
Ayako of Tokyo, 2564 East Camelback (Biltmore Fashion Park), 955-7007. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner,... More >>
CHIMI SWEEP
, July 22, 1992
Minga's, 4323 West Cactus, Phoenix, 978-5167. Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday, 11 a.m.... More >>
TANDOOR VITTLES
, July 15, 1992
Delhi Palace, 5050 East McDowell, Phoenix, 244-8181. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 11:30... More >>
SILENCE OF THE CLAMS
, July 01, 1992
She's back. The scourge of restaurants is making her annual visit to the Valley. Eateries around the country know my mother as the Will... More >>
CARNIVORE CRUISE
, May 20, 1992
Sometimes a man's got to do what a man's got to do. Fifty weeks a year I suppress all the instincts that Freud warned us about. Instead, I... More >>
CONTEMPT OF FOOD COURT
, May 06, 1992
My visiting mother-in-law gave out a low moan. My next foray, I had just told her, would not take us to posh resorts, cozy bistros or funky... More >>
PRETTY GOOD, BUT NOT SO HOT
, February 19, 1992
If you're Jewish and from New York, you know three things. Guilt. Suffering. Chinese food. My earliest memories go back to Sunday evenings,... More >>
DONT FRY FOR ME ARGENTINA
, January 15, 1992
South American cuisine" has a way of sounding exotic. More exotic than it really is. After all, we North Americans use many of the same... More >>
GORGEOUS GORGE
, January 08, 1992
If I said 'Tis the season," I bet I'd raise an eyebrow or two. The holidays are over, babe," some of you would say. Long gone. Dead as that... More >>
POLKA SPOTS
, October 09, 1991
The party's over--Oktoberfest, that is. So where does one go to score sauerkraut and bratwurst once the street vendors have disappeared? Where... More >>
PASTRAMI DEAREST
, September 18, 1991
As I write this, I am noshing on half of an obscenely huge sandwich, leftovers from "research" conducted earlier in the day. This has been the... More >>
TO SEAR, WITH LOVE
, August 28, 1991
The question I'm most frequently asked--after "What's your favorite restaurant?"--is "Where's the best place to eat Thai food in Phoenix?" Until... More >>
SHELLFISH MOTIVES
, June 26, 1991
Dana Centrella is a fish fanatic. This Delaware native is a man with a mission: to educate and inform Phoenicians about fish.... More >>
STEAKSALL KINDS
, June 05, 1991
When I walk into the elegant new Ruth's Chris Steak House in Scottsdale, I am struck by a singular thought: Scotch. An obvious case of... More >>
ASIA FU
, May 22, 1991
Summer is busting out all over. And in Tempe, Japanese restaurants are sprouting up like mung beans! In the last few months, two new... More >>
ON GOLDEN PRAWN
, May 08, 1991
A guest from Minneapolis stayed with me recently. We went out to eat a few times. Over dinner, she told me she distrusts restaurant critics. "I... More >>
PASA POINTS OF NO RETURN
, March 06, 1991
How I arrive at La Mexicana in El Mirage is an imprecise process. "It's behind the Circle K," my tipster has told me. This is my only... More >>
THE WORLD OF SUSHI WRONG
, January 16, 1991
Ah, sushi! Our passionate romance cooled in 1979 following a raconteur's tale of extended illness caused by the consumption of raw fish in... More >>
BASKET CASE
, November 14, 1990
There are two times of the year I can't get enough of alfresco eating: October-November and March-April. I'm not alone in this. I know... More >>
MEX SURROGATE
, November 07, 1990
I don't just work on the Best of Phoenix section, I read it. When our annual special insert came out in September, I noticed that Sombrero... More >>
A DRINK WITH JAM AND BREAD
, October 31, 1990
Afternoon tea manages to sound civilized and superfluous at the same time. Let's face it, sitting down to a pot of tea and some prissy little... More >>
WURST CASE SCENARIO
, October 03, 1990
October stands for a lot of things. Crisp apples. Peak foliage. Carved pumpkins. But most important to serious celebrants of food and... More >>
THE PITA PRINCIPLE
, September 12, 1990
For months, I've had Middle Eastern cuisine on my "to do" list. Ten weeks ago, I could have pulled off a simple restaurant review. Now,... More >>
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