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"The Hangover" at The Attic Ends Our Burger Summer

"The Hangover" at The Attic Ends Our Burger Summer
David Holden

Although the signage for the defunct Cave and Ives is still draped across the outside of the building, the gastropub is now called The Attic, and literally is an attic.

The upstairs loft may be small, but it manages to fit in a bar and a patio for those cool winter nights. Aside from beer, the Attic serves mostly bar food, including, as I am sure you guessed, burgers.

Unfortunately, I didn't fast that day, otherwise I might have been tempted to try the I Can't Believe Huddy Ate This Burger, which consists of six half-pound patties, six eggs, and 12 pieces of bacon. Instead, I settled for one-sixth of that burger and chose The Hangover Burger. The Hangover is topped with an egg, bacon, cheddar cheese, chipotle mayo, mixed greens, onions, and tomato.

See also: - Burger Summer archives - In Defense of the White Castle Hamburger

The Patty: 4 When a place claims it has the best burger in town, I expect the burger to at least be properly cooked. Now, I am usually pretty forgiving, so if I ordered my burger medium-rare and it comes out medium, it's not the end of the world. But when it comes out medium-well (and that's being generous), that's unacceptable. Overcooking this burger really ruined what otherwise seemed to be a flavorful piece of meat. While the patty still had some peppery flavor, the juices that make a burger tender and savory were nonexistent.

The Toppings: 9 The patty may have lacked juices, but the toppings certainty did not. Of course, the reason this burger is called The Hangover is because of the cure to all hangovers: the fried egg. With toppings, I usually prefer less mess, but an egg may be the one exception. Once you take your first bite, the egg will surely break, spreading yolky-goodness to the rest of the burger. The strips of bacon mixed well with the slightly spicy chipotle mayo and a sharp slice of cheddar. The Attic could have stopped there, but they really wanted to load this bad boy. The two slices of ripe red tomatoes and mixed greens were quite refreshing, while the fried onions added crunch.   The Bun: 8.5 With a runny egg, the bun must be strong enough withstand the overflow of yolk and the pretzel bun does just that. Even though it was made from pretzel, the bun was still soft and easily soaked up the gooey yolk. The salty bun was freshly baked and light enough not to weigh you down as you down the rest of the burger.

The Side: 4 My first thought when tasting these light brown potatoes was that they tasted like Burger King's French fries. To be fair, these fries were clearly of a much a higher quality than BK's, but it was as if The Burger King creepily sneaked into The Attic and gave the chef his recipe. The color is a little darker and the taste is slightly bolder, but the texture of the fry was all BK.

The Price: 4 I felt a little duped on the fries, as I could get the same fries for $2 down the road, but $14 for this burger isn't terrible. And if my burger didn't spend so much time on the grill $14 might look a little less expensive.

Overall: 5.9 This review probably would have had a more positive spin to it if I was sitting a few chairs over, as my friend ordered the same burger and his was properly prepared. Nevertheless, the toppings and bun definitely were tasty. But even with a medium-rare patty, I am still skeptical that this burger would hold up to its own billing as the best burger in Phoenix.

Stay tuned for a wrap-up post with Holden's assessment of his summer of meat.

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miles
The Attic

4247 E. Indian School Road
Phoenix, AZ 85018

602-955-1967

www.facebook.com/theattic4247


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