The best thing about Sam Fox's new seafood restaurant is that it doesn't act like a Sam Fox restaurant. Tucked inside The Yard, the restaurateur's mammoth dining and hangout space in north Central Phoenix, the little room of shiny white tiles, marble-topped tables, and swingin' tunes serves up an eclectic array of stellar seafood dishes more inventive than anything you might find at Fox's more mainstream haunts in the Valley. There are crispy Thai-style frog legs, meaty Cajun shrimp, and house-smoked sturgeon with crème fraiche and a fried egg atop toasted ciabatta — Little Cleo's version of bacon and eggs. Sidle up to the oyster bar for the day's offering of bivalves and thank your lucky Nemo you're not at Fox's trendy Culinary Dropout next door.