We live in a town where horchata, a seemingly ubiquitous, one-note drink, lives out many lives. Let's cross out stuff made from powder mix and focus on the real deal: Some are creamy and some are lean and refreshing. Some are sweeter than others. Some are rice-ier and some are very almond-heavy. Some are loaded with spices, chiefly Mexican cinnamon, although any warming spices are welcome. Some are made with barley instead of rice (technically, this is called cebada), while some come topped with espresso. At a few places, you can even get horchata with full chunks of melon and walnut floating around in it, which, while difficult to consume, isn't half-bad. But we'll throw our lot in with the classic, balanced, and milky style at Taquería Los Yaquis, parked outside Charlie's Phoenix every Thursday through Sunday and open very, very late. It's nowhere near too sweet, but it is just a touch on that end, and that's because the default salsa at Los Yaquis — the only salsa — is unapologetically, deliciously spicy and bitter. This is what horchata was made for.