This all-day restaurant/cafe — a collaboration between Nadia Holguín and Armando Hernandez of Tacos Chiwas and James Beard Award-winning pizza icon Chris Bianco — is an understated gem. Situated in an artfully restored century-old building that once housed a market for immigrant communities, Roland's offers a small menu that is rooted in the norteño culinary traditions of Holguín and Hernandez's native Chihuahua. Dishes like chile colorado and entomatadas (corn tortillas stuffed with asadero cheese and smothered in a vibrant red chile sauce) demonstrate an underlying reverence and respect for homestyle Mexican fare.