One of the greatest seats in Phoenix dining is a stool overlooking the kitchen at Barrio Café Gran Reserva. From there, you can see Silvana Salcido Esparza's collection of Mexican wines, made from grapes like chardonnay and nebbiolo, mostly in the Valle de Guadalupe. Mexican wine? Hell, yes. BCGR is no longer new, but the tiny V-shaped dining room on Grand Avenue is plating a version of upscale, intellectual Mexican food on a level that sets it apart from the citywide pack. Flavor-brimming vegan moles. Elegant scallop aguachile. Drinks charged with bacanora and chiles. Full-tilt murals rendered by some of the town's best street artists. Sous Chef Brianna Arzaga keeps the kitchen humming, and duck carnitas come out to white-clothed tables as a guitar player makes the strings quiver. The clear play here is to opt for the tasting menu, offered in vegan and non-vegan forms. It will set you back well under $100 for courses that will set your mind forward, making it a fine-dining deal without local equal.