Everybody knows Los Reyes de la Torta. But with all due respect to the popular (and excellent) darling of the Phoenix torta scene, we pledge our allegiance to another king. Tortas el Rey might not have Guy Fieri's signed poster on the wall, but this place slings some mean tortas. You'll find the usual suspects, including a thin, crispy milanesa; a perky al pastor; and a Hawaiana filled with pork shoulder and pineapple. The El Rey is the obligatory overstuffed festival of six meats, while the excellent Ranchera Especial is a creamy, chipotle-sauced number built on carne asada with griddled onions and peppers. But what sets Tortas el Rey apart from the crowd is its cooks' aggressive, skillful use of the griddle, turning every sandwich into a sizzling hot marriage of toasted bread, seared meats and blistered, charred vegetables. It's all in the technique.