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One of the many ways that Belly rocks is by making simple food sing. A lemongrass-scented horchata — sugar so muted that the fragrant rice and the great perfume of the lemongrass can tango — is a drink destined to be slurped down on your drive home from scoring takeout. Consider, why not, a simple side of sautéed seasonal vegetables rippling with umami bass notes, even the meaty fist of cauliflower tender at the core. Or take the claypot-cooked chicken, dark thigh chunks and sinewy-looking strips uncommonly succulent, touched by the warmth of turmeric and a measured zap of fish sauce. The quartet behind Instrumental Hospitality, Michael Babcock, Wayne Coats, Paul Waxman, and Robert Cissell, already has their restaurant humming. And that’s without even writing about A-sides and cocktails.

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