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Nobuo at Teeter House

622 E. Adams St.
Phoenix, AZ 85004
602-254-0600
Critics' Pick
Best Of
Nobuo at Teeter House +

Jacob Tyler Dunn

Details

  • $$$
  • Vegetarian Friendly, Wheelchair accessible, Kid Friendly, Patio/Sidewalk Dining, Takeout
  • Lunch, Dinner, Snack Food
  • Full bar
  • Garage Parking, Parking Validation
  • Reservations Not Accepted
Chef Nobuo Fukuda, now of Heritage Square’s Nobuo at Teeter House, won his James Beard Award more than a decade ago. But his cooking feels fresh and anchored vitally in our present age of dining. The Teeter House space has the feeling of centuries past, as does its fantastic tea selection, but something more cutting-edge starts to unfold with the flavors from your first bite. Maybe it’s the local greens charged with a bright yuzu vinaigrette. Maybe it’s the marine-perfumed rice that pulls such subtle flavor from eggs and seaweed. Maybe it’s deep-fried soft shell crab with breaded legs spiraling outward, like the blades of a buzz saw, from craggy house-made focaccia. Whatever your first bite may be, it will be clear that a distinct and memorable eating experience has begun. Fukuda doesn’t confine his focus to his native Japan. He’s just as happy, when the pieces make sense, to reach out to a place like Italy for Parmesan shavings and basil oil to accent salmon sashimi. This isn’t cheap-plastic fusion, but thoughtful maneuvering essential to dishes, just as unexpected brushstrokes might be integral to a great painting. Fukuda relies, from season to season, on the intimately local. His Vietnamese-style noodle salad with short ribs changes slightly with the months, tracking the farm produce. To fully appreciate Fukuda’s prowess as a chef, take a seat at his bar and spring for omakase.

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