Chow Bella

Cafe: Canteen Modern Tequila

Looking for a dining location on Mill that doesn't involve drug references or gummy bears? We may have the place for you.

Food Critic Michele Laudig on Canteen Modern Tequila:

I'm still dreaming of those tacos.

Served upright in zigzagged metal trays, heaped with shredded cabbage, crumbled cotija cheese, and fresh cilantro, they were clearly inspired by Mexico City street tacos: hot, three-bite-size, and wrapped in excellent homemade flour tortillas that were tender, a little chewy, and kissed with that toasty griddle flavor. You could make a meal out of these or order a bunch and share as appetizers (although almost all the entrées here are basically platter versions of what's inside the tacos).

Roasted-then-grilled Corona and lime chicken, brightened with cilantro, was moist and flavorful, and made a tasty encore in the robust posole verde, spicy hominy and tomatillo soup topped with ripe avocado slices and served with shredded radishes on the side. Juicy grilled carne asada, seasoned with lipsmacking cilantro chimichurri sauce, was so good I had to order it twice. Grilled, tequila-marinated shrimp got a sweet, tangy boost from sour orange and date, while achiote-braised pibil (pulled pork) was luscious with a dollop of mango-habanero salsa...full story

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Jonathan McNamara