Cafe Reviews

Ennui and Upward

Page 3 of 3

I find more to like in the crab and shrimp ravioli ($9.95 appetizer/$15.95 entree). The foundation is dainty herb pasta, actually sheets of dough topping teaspoons of seafood instead of traditional ravioli pockets. I snake bites from my dining buddy, relishing every bit of tasty crab, shrimp and shallot and in a piquant Asiago, tomato and basil cream sauce.

While I label the 14-ounce "New Yorker" steak ($19.95) a bit chewy, its shallot and green-peppercorn sauce flat, I am alone in my judgment. As my dining companion points out, I crave bolder flavors and challenging spices. He is content with the basic, tender meat and mashed potatoes. Perhaps this is why I doggie-bag half my bourbon glazed salmon ($15.95), too. I like the grilled fish and its interesting glaze of maple syrup and Jack Daniel's Sourmash reduction. It's simply just not special enough to shine.

There's no question that, once the word gets out, Timothy Michael's is going to be a local hot spot. It's comfortable, convenient, and competent -- all things to all people. Just bring your own punch line.

New Times restaurant critic Carey Sweet has been writing about food and dining in the Valley for 10 years. Contact her at 602-744-6558 or at [email protected]

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Carey Sweet
Contact: Carey Sweet