Clam Belly Roll on a toasted bun.
6 Spots for Great Seafood in Metro Phoenix
September 25, 2019 | 7:00am
We live in the northern reaches of a great desert. That doesn't stop metro Phoenix's suppliers and cooks from bringing great seafood to the people of the Valley. Some of the places you can find a great place are expected, and some aren't. The options call on the marine traditions of coastal places all over the globe, from New England to Japan. Here are six sure to satisfy your craving for great seafood.
The Salt Cellar 550 North Hayden Road, Scottsdale
The subterranean seafood classic that is The Salt Cellar has dedicated a chunk of its menu to lobster entrees, stating, “We take pride in serving only live Maine lobsters from our lobster tank.” Your choices include the 1.5-pound Harbor Master’s Choice, the baked stuffed lobster (an entire lobster stuffed with crab and scallops for you seafood fanatics), and the steak and lobster — a 1.25-pound lobster joined with a little filet mignon. Diners can also expect some killer appetizers like the mussels in butter sauce, ceviche, and classic cocktails galore.
Maine Lobster Lady Multiple Locations
Legally named Diana Santospago, the Maine Lobster Lady’s New England-style rolls outshine the sum of their parts brilliantly. Lobster, butter, and bread sounds like a simple meal out of Dickens, but, treated right, the ingredients evolve into something higher. Santospago’s lobster roll skews one-dimensional, toward unchecked softness given that the lobster meat isn’t fried. Another trick that changes the game, Santospago says, is that she spurns tail meat, using just meat from lobster claws. With sourcing and skill and some magic — like ditching clarified butter for butter clouded with milk solids, like keeping a spacious, immaculate truck — the Lobstah Lady can convert even the shellfish skeptic into a believer.
Chula Seafood 100 East Camelback Road, #172
8015 East Roosevelt Street, Scottsdale
Much of Chula Seafood's always evolving fish-anchored menu comes from creatures taken out of the sea off the coast of San Diego, where the proprietors have a fishing boat. Chula's Japanese-inspired spicy tuna bowl is a fantastic dish. It comes with just enough togarashi-doctored Kewpie mayo to slick the fish. That fish has a clean marine flavor and lush texture. Charred shishito peppers are brightened with yuzu and beech mushrooms pickled in rice vinegar and sake. Nori flakes, black sesame, and scallions add filigrees to the flavors. Daikon and bok choy add coolness and gentle snap. All said, the spicy tuna bowl has a rare blend of richness, lightness, and freshness that, flashing through your mind days later as a memory, may abruptly alter your afternoon lunch plans.
Nelson’s Meat + Fish 2415 East Indian School Road
Nelson’s Meat + Fish is a fish market of an almost unprecedented caliber. Owner Chris Nelson developed relationships with fishermen all over the country and world when he worked full time as a supplier of hotels and restaurants with Seafoods.com. He taps into his vast network of long-liners and deep-ocean salmon farmers, his scallop guys and his crab trappers, to provide super-fresh seafood to Phoenix. In the shop's display case, scallops glisten like pearls, and filets of salmon gleam sunset-orange under the bright lights. The limited menu of prepared food includes poke banh mi sandwiches, cider-vinegar-based coleslaw, pickled cucumbers, ceviche, and Chesapeake Bay shrimp salad. You can take food next door to eat and sip at The Wandering Tortoise.
A colorful platter of shrimp aguachile.
Mariscos Ensenada Multiple Locations
Mariscos Ensenada makes a mean shrimp aguachile, a preparation of uncooked fish in the family of ceviche. Aguachile uses citrus to make raw fish more palatable. Raw seafood sits in bright pools colored by pulverized peppers, runny deep-red or electric-green baths kicking with bracing flavors. At Marsicos Ensenada, the green sauce is lightning. Serranos, cilantro, and citrus give the sauce a wildly bracing zap, making the shrimp taste fragrant, marine, and super-fresh. Slivers of red onion add blunt, pungent aromatics. Cucumber slices add clean flavors and crunch. You almost can't get enough of the green sauce on your tiny spoon. Each bite is a gastronomic flash-bang. This is the apex of lush warm-weather eating.
Modern Oysterbar Chophouse 10050 North Scottsdale Road, #127, Scottsdale