Dessert First

"Hot Chocolate" Cake at The Arrogant Butcher

Sam Fox: Love him or hate him, chances are you have some opinion about this Valley-based restaurateur. Not everyone likes the idea of one guy cranking out 12 (yes, 12!) restaurant concepts in 14 years. But even if not all of them are winners, at the very least Fox is putting up one hell of a fight against the overwhelming number of mega-chain restaurants that line our city's streets. Plus, with 12 concepts to choose from, everyone is bound to like one. After having a couple of enjoyable meals at True Food Kitchen (including a good dessert and a not-as-good dessert), it was time to try one of the Fox restaurants from the other side of the spectrum: The Arrogant Butcher.

The official website describes Fox Restaurants Concepts as "a collection of original, thriving boutique restaurants." While True Food is boutique-y, The Arrogant Butcher is quite the opposite, starting with the name. Right off the bat, the place is trying too hard, so it doesn't achieve the easy elegance that other Fox eateries are known for. The interior has some cool industrial touches, but the act feels incomplete. Look one way to find a beautiful bar with metal workshop stools, but look the other way to see old wooden chairs against a sterile hospital wall, complete with metal strips lining the cheap wall tile.

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Dominique Chatterjee