Cafe Reviews


Lon's at the Hermosa, Hermosa Inn, 5532 North Palo Cristi, Paradise Valley, 955-7878. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner, Monday through Saturday, 6 to 10 p.m.

Valley hotels and resorts know they can't do much about marketing their rooms to locals. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that people who live here already have a place to spend the night. But the hostelries make a big push to get us year-round residents to come for dinner, particularly in the off-season when well-heeled tourists in this town become scarcer than liberal Democrats. Two hotel dining rooms--the new Lon's at the chic Hermosa Inn and the newly refurbished Wright's at the opulent Arizona Biltmore--hope to sail through the summertime doldrums by filling their seats with Phoenix fannies. So I hauled mine to both spots, to test my natural hot-weather inclination to do nothing more vigorous than stand naked in front of my air-conditioning vents until, oh, Halloween. Are the restaurants worth the effort of getting dressed and braving the desert furnace? Lon's is, if you can be lured by the prospect of pleasant food in a delightful setting. And so is Wright's, if you enjoy forking out huge piles of greenbacks on some less-than-scintillating fare.

Restored after years of neglect and a devastating fire, the Hermosa Inn has been reconstructed in the style of the original 1930s adobe. Lon's, the dining room, is named after former owner Lon Megargee, an artist who used the property as his home and studio.

The place resonates with old Arizona charm. Wood ceiling beams, beehive fireplaces and cowboy memorabilia create an authentic rustic Western feel. So do the original works of art, some by Megargee himself, as well as some vintage photos. Servers are casually outfitted in jeans, aprons and bola ties. And management has properly decided not to ruin the effect by piping in music. The only sounds you'll hear are those of diners having a good time. Why the happy noises? The appetizers deserve some of the credit. They're familiar, but with just enough flair to keep them from being stodgy. Take the Southwestern bruschetta, five pieces of bread seasoned with olive oil and garlic, heaped with tomatoes and gilded with capers and herbed goat cheese. They do just what starters are supposed to do--get you primed for dinner. So does the fire-roasted whole artichoke, split in half and drizzled with a perky vinaigrette. A tempting, poblano-tinged aioli comes along for dipping. And while I can't give Lon's saut‚ed sea scallops any points for originality--saut‚ed sea scallops decorate just about every appetizer list in town--I can boost their score with high marks for artistic and technical merit. Four moist, delicately seared mollusks on a bed of fresh greens get pumped up by a zippy orange poppy-seed dressing. One appetizer bust: a ridiculously out-of-place mix of sweet potato fries and battered onion rings that apparently wandered in from a sports bar. I can't imagine many of Lon's sophisticated guests panting after this inelegant, oversize fried mound. How about offering a platter of grilled vegetables instead? The ten or so main dishes aren't easy to characterize: slabs of wood-grilled beef; seafood with a Southwestern touch; single offerings of duck, lamb and chicken. But while it's difficult to get a handle on the style of cooking, it's no trouble describing the results. This is hearty, tasty fare, reasonably priced in the $14 to $20 range.

The waiter convinced us not to order the beef. "It's choice grade, not prime," he explained, when we asked about the quality. While he vouched for its taste, he told us not to expect the kind of meat you'd find in a serious steak house. That kind of knowledgeable honesty had the effect of giving us more confidence in his other recommendations. He gave an unqualified thumbs up to the braised lamb shank. So did I. Lamb shank is becoming a trendy dish, and when it's prepared like it is here, you can see why. Lon's puts out a moist and tender hunk of meat, and rests it on a zesty wild mushroom risotto flecked with carrots and zucchini. At $14.95, this filling platter is probably the best menu value. So you'll have a few bucks left over to treat yourself to a glass of Penfolds Shiraz, a lusty Australian red wine that makes an outstanding accompaniment. These days, I'm almost afraid to order shrimp in a restaurant. Is there any food that's been as debased over the past few years? I've had enough rubbery, flavorless crustaceans to fill a trawler. I believe people may have actually forgotten just how sublime good shrimp can taste. Well, they can get a reminder from Lon's saut‚ed Mexican prawns, five hefty critters brimming with briny flavors, boosted with a mild salsa.

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Howard Seftel