Chow Bella

James Porter's Third Anniversary Dinner at Petite Maison Rocks The (Little) House! And You Can Still Get in on the Celebration.

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The meal begins with a complimentary plate of hot-from-the-oven gougères -- lightly browned puffs of choux pastry (think airy eclair dough) filled with flecks of melting Gruyère. Oh my!

The first course offers four choices, all given playful names:

Chicken of the Sea: big eye tuna carpaccio -- yuzu -- bonito

Green Eggs and Ham: crispy poached duck egg -- braised jowls -- grain mustard

A crisp-edged, ultra-flavorful hunk of pork cheek, topped with a soft-centered, herb and panko-dusted duck egg, the plate swirled with grain mustard. This is hog heaven.

Hide and Seek: truffle ravioli -- creamy egg yolk -- Parmesan snow

Not Organic, Orgasmic: watermelon -- crispy goat cheese -- roasted beets -- Banyuls vinegar

An elegant interplay of sweet melon, salty, panko-crusted goat cheese, peppery arugula and earthy roasted beet, accented with syrupy drizzles of Banyuls wine vinegar.

Yes, it'll cost you an extra $12, but Breakin' the Cali Law -- a simple but oh-so-effective supplement of seared Hudson Valley foie gras, served with Mission fig confit and sweet threads of agave nectar -- is not to be missed. Especially with a tiny glass of Sauternes.

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Nikki Buchanan