Chow Bella

So-So Huevos and Fabulous French Toast at SOL Mexican Cocina

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There's really nothing wrong with Quesadilla con Huevos, two griddled flour tortillas, filled with bland scrambled eggs (a universal opinion about all the eggs) and a melt of three Mexican cheeses, each pie-shaped wedge topped with pico de gallo and drizzles of avocado sauce and chipotle sauce. The dish is fine and the portion is large, but then, so is the price for tortilla, egg and cheese ($12). And who really wants this much food anyway?

Recipes for chilaquiles are as varied as the cooks who make them. Some are layered and baked like lasagna, others look more like a slapdash throw-together of corn chips, chile sauce and cheese (a quick hangover cure for a hungover cook). So I'm always open-minded about the preparation. SOL's version has all the right components and then some -- including medium-spicy tomatillo sauce, queso fresco, eggs, cotija chese, crema and onions -- but it's a bit too dry for me ($11.75). More sauce, please, and do we really need a bowl the size of a bird bath?

There's nothing memorable -- or even likeable -- about Huevos Mexicanos al Gusto either, a dish that promises so much more than it delivers: eggs scrambled with nopales, onion, roasted chiles and cheese, served with black beans, pico de gallo and warm tortillas. We tacked on serviceable chorizo, which brought the price to $12.50. Que lastima! No me gusto.

One thing we all noticed: terrible eggs. So tasteless we thought they might be poured from a carton but our waitress insisted they were "farm-fresh." What an annoying and utterly pointless phrase that's become!

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Nikki Buchanan