From his politically correct, healthful American approach, one could surmise that John Makin hopes to draw young, adventurous diners to Missouri's at Seventh Street. Yet both times I visit the restaurant, the majority of diners are older and white-haired.

And why not? These customers have every reason to feel comfortable at Missouri's at Seventh. The restaurant has an elegant look. Booths are upholstered in staid florals. Large floor-to-ceiling windows afford an unobstructed view of the unnaturally blue fountain-moat outside. There is no neon, no outlandish artwork, no loud music to alienate them.

Of course, I could be wrong about Makin's intentions. With Missouri's at Seventh Street, he has a built-in clientele for whom location is of primary importance. One thing about this older group: They'll dine here no matter who is cooking--or what he's preparing.

Orangerie, Arizona Biltmore, 24th Street and Missouri, Phoenix, 955-6600. Hours: 6 to 9 p.m., Monday through Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Missouri's at Seventh Street, 645 East Missouri, Suite 175, Phoenix, 263-8000. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., Monday through Friday; Dinner, 5:30 to 10 p.m., Monday through Thursday; 5:30 to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday; closed Sunday.

orangerie

I'm through with "fou fou." You can thank the Orangerie at the Arizona Biltmore for this epiphany.

The dessert plate is as large as the entree. We have plenty of room to eat, considering the long wait and tiny portions we've endured.

missouri's

Makin's "American provincial" cookery might best be described as "politically correct fou fou.