Cafe Reviews

WINNER IS SERVED

Page 3 of 3

But what sets Binion's apart are its steaks. They're aged U.S. prime, cooked on an open pit over mesquite charcoal. They're so good that our homicidal thoughts toward the Bills gradually softened. Flush with beef and mercy, we agreed that several years of incarceration would be ample punishment for the 52-17 thrashing they inflicted on their supporters.

Every steak I've ever had here has been fabulous. Pick out any of your favorite adjectives--juicy, tender, moist, beefy, flavorful; they all apply. And none of these hunks of meat costs more than $20.

The man-size, 20-ounce porterhouse steak made us wish we lived in a world without cholesterol and waist sizes. It's astonishingly tender, and juicy enough to require a glass instead of a knife.

But just when we thought no other steak could possibly match it, out came the 12-ounce New York strip. It's even beefier than the porterhouse, beautifully marbled and packed with taste.

The ten-ounce, fist-size hunk of filet mignon is my favorite. Soft as butter, I cut it as thinly as possible, because even small bites can satisfy the most intense meat craving.

But eating here does present steak lovers like me with a problem.
I've gotten spoiled. Most steak houses simply can't compete with the quality at Binion's. And if they can, it's unlikely they can match the price.

What's the answer? Harvey, Mark and I have it solved. We'll be back next year. Let's hope the Bills won't.

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Howard Seftel