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This week’s cafe column uses the phrase “style over substance” to describe Hula’s Modern Tiki. Talk about being off to a bad start.
Writer Wynter Holden, filling in for critic Michele Laudig, on Hula’s Modern Tiki:
The coconut shrimp rolls arrived so overdone that I was surprised our server didn’t push the chef to remake them. The outer skin was charred, the shrimp inside gummy and overcooked. Not even a thickly slathered layer of the strong pineapple-horseradish dipping sauce could hide the kitchen’s blunder. After a few reluctant bites, I was pining for another order of the calamari. Entrees were equally hit and miss. Both the Cocojoe’s chicken and Jawaiian jerk chicken plates were decent. Rolled in coconut breading and fried, the Cocojoe’s chicken was juicy and sweet, while jerk spices gave the Jawaiian chicken a pleasant kick. The accompanying johnnycakes were like a tasty hybrid of muffin and cornbread, but too heavy when paired with beans and plantains. The dish screamed for a green vegetable to balance out the starchy sides. Other than plain greens, you’re out of luck here. Fish tacos were solid but not outstanding, and the scoop of rice served on the side was undercooked to the point of being chewy
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