The toasty sweet aroma of baking bread greets customers at the door of the WILLO Baking Company. Even after the baking is done, the kitchen air clings to that scent the way perfume from a forgiving violet clings to the heel that crushed it. The neat rows of stacked loaves,…

The first edition of The Oxford Companion to Wine devotes four pathetic little lines out of its 1,088 pages to the wines of Arizona. This definitive reference for the neophyte tippler or the oenophile in the know covers the wines of the world from scientific, historic and artistic perspectives. “Arizona,…

If you’ve ever been to a good farmers market, you know there’s not one in Phoenix. Consider the Hollywood Farmers Market in Los Angeles. Four blocks long and two blocks wide, it is an eater’s dream come true. Fresh cheese, all sorts of bakers and baked goods, freshly cut flowers,…

It was probably over 100 degrees in the shade. In fact, there wasn’t much shade. The cook was making sourdough biscuits and boiled salt pork. If he had time, he might make some pinto beans. For dessert, he was planning to make a pie with dried apples. He did all…

When I was growing up, my grandmother taught me never to “divorce the salt and pepper.” Even though I thought she was a little eccentric, I was careful to pass both the salt and pepper whenever anyone asked for just one or the other. Although the reason behind her rule…

The lights are dim, and shadows hide the speaker’s face. The voice is thin and strained. The tape is rolling and the confession begins. This isn’t a Frosted Flakes commercial, and it isn’t Oprah. This is someone who eats for sex, a seeker of aphrodisiacs. Some people will eat anything…

One of the best things about traveling is bringing back souvenirs. Not surprisingly, my favorite way to recapture vagabond moments is with food. Spices, canned goods, jams and preserves are easy to pack, travel well and generally don’t annoy customs officials. I just got back from a trip to India…

A long time ago, in the jungles of Mexico, a Mayan or Olmec Indian discovered a ridged, football-shaped fruit. It was filled with white, mildly sweet flesh and a few dozen hard, bitter, inchlong seeds. Ignoring the flesh, this early human let the seeds ferment, and then dry out. The…

Valentine’s Day is approaching, and that has me thinking about romance. And sitting down and sipping a glass of wine or two is the perfect first date. It’s a great way to relax, talk about your day, and get to know the person you’re romancing. A first glass of wine…

I spent my first 30 years in tomato hell. The only tomatoes I remember were a dull combination of pale skin, bland flavor and mealy texture. I’ve since learned about the wonderful effects of vine ripening. I’ve also learned that it takes a good farmer to grow a good tomato…

A rose by any other name might be called an apple. That’s right; apples are in the rose family. So are pears, cherries, apricots, peaches, plums, strawberries and raspberries. Who knew? Apples, unlike their brethren, are winter’s fruit. Most varieties are available from early fall through spring. For all its…

Don’t hate me because my food is beautiful. It just turns out that way. It looked good before I went to culinary school. I never just throw food on a plate. And I can’t arrange food on any old plate. Joan Crawford hated wire clothes hangers; I hate paper plates…

Honey was the only sweetener available for most of man’s history. It was difficult and often dangerous to obtain. Honey poachers were often put to death. Our love for sweets has endured. Despite a wide choice of sweeteners on the market, honey remains popular. It’s almost a primal love. Man’s…

Why does it seem like every out-of-town guest wants to drive to Mexico? “Because it’s so close,” they plead. They’ve obviously never endured that stretch of I-10 between Phoenix and Tucson. If you’ve lived in Phoenix long enough, you’ve probably been coerced, or victimized, into the dreaded Trip to Nogales…

Growing up in Arizona, I’ve never had a strong sense of season. For starters, we only have two: hot and warm. Being a seasonal dyslexic, I relied on artificial clues to tell when the seasons were changing. As spring approached, the population dwindled, and people wore short-sleeved shirts with their…

I love food. As an obsessed foodie, I believe that cooking is a lot like making love. Like most lovers, I have a special place where my food fantasies seem closer to reality. Welcome to the secret world of restaurant supply. I remember my first visit to a restaurant supply…

No drink says “let’s celebrate” better than champagne. No night says “let’s party” louder than New Year’s Eve. Need to buy a bottle of champagne by year’s end? You’re not alone. Finding a decent bottle of bubbles to ring in the new year doesn’t have to be a champagne in…