IV League

Elisabeth has given me an IV bag, and while she had suspected I would like it, she’s surprised at how very much. It’s a thing we do, my sister and I, bestowing upon each other questionable gifts. (The IV — the intravenous kind, not the Roman numeral — is in…

Full Scale Alert

Aieee! It’s the attack of the mutant killer salmon! Following deeply disturbing news reports of 115,000 farm-raised Atlantic salmon escaping in Washington state waters in 1999, and 300,000 salmon escaping in Maine waters in 2000, more than 200 grocers, restaurants and seafood distributors nationwide have called for a ban on…

Acacia Mistaken Identity

My guest for dinner at the Four Seasons Resort’s flagship restaurant, Acacia, is finally relaxing. He’s settled back into his oversize, high-backed armchair and is fingering the stem of his wineglass thoughtfully. A lazy grin appears on his face. “You know,” he says cheerfully, “this is all right.” And it…

The Name Game

Roaring Fork chef Robert McGrath is offering his help to other local restaurateurs. Concerned that his competition appears to be challenged in their ability to name things, he says he’s willing to give assistance in baby monikers. Should parents find themselves stumped upon the birth of their child, McGrath says…

Worshiping the Devil

My tab for three martinis will be $22.50. Plus tax and tip. Ouch. Is it just me, or does meeting a friend for a drink these days require a pretty healthy wallet situation? The two of us plan to make the best of it, loitering at the bar for more…

Meat Loaf Market

Who’d have thought I’d find really terrific, wow-that’s-good meat loaf in a nightclub? But I did, served at Soho, right alongside potent concoctions like an espresso martini (a creamy, macho blend of Stoli Vanil, Kahlúa, Frangelico, espresso and Bailey’s) and a decor that’s downscale Goth. Black and burgundy velvet curtains,…

Heat Stroke of Genius

My friend is visiting from Hawaii, the year-round paradise of Maui. He wants to embrace Arizona despite its bright full sunlight, he’s insisting, with a special emphasis on checking out all my favorite Mexican hole-in-the-wall restaurants. (Maui is beautiful, but simple, satisfying Sonoran cuisine has yet to make it to…

Twinkie Twinkie Little Star

New York chef Christopher Sells takes credit for creating the deep-fried Twinkie. It’s exactly as it sounds: Twinkies are dipped in vinegar-based fish-and-chips batter before being dunked in 400-degree oil. For a gourmet touch, he sprinkles the hot Twinkies with confectioner’s sugar and rests them atop a four-berry coulis. It’s…

Room at the In

This was to be my birthday dinner to remember, a landmark event staged last week at one of the world’s best restaurants, Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California. Chez Panisse, of course, is the creation of legendary chef Alice Waters and, since it opened in 1971, it’s come to be known…

Summer Teeth

Whatever happened to sleeping through the summer? Remember how the Valley used to just shut down during the warm months, and to work was considered some sort of crime? Somebody tell that to our chefs today. The toqued talent has been busy lately, opening new operations and renovating existing ones…

For Beta or Worse

I really should apologize to Cabo owner Chris Harter right now. I should be sharing with the dining public what a great restaurant he’s created (because he has given us a fun, creative, top-notch salute to Mexican seafood). But I can’t stop laughing. Because while Harter has successfully navigated the…

Squash Bottom

I just ate a $22 piece of smoked salmon. The deep-pink curl of cold fish was perhaps an ounce, maybe just a little more. It was slightly salty, fleshy firm, quite nice, really. Oh, and the water was excellent, too. The sparkling beverage came in an oversize glass tumbler, with…

A Pretty Pickle

My mom, as always, is thinking. And, as always, she’s come up with a great idea. “A laminated plastic sheet,” she muses, peering over the 13 little dishes of pickles with which our server has blanketed the table. “With pictures. Like they do for sushi, so we know what we’re…

Bow Wow

I know I’m opening a brand-new can of worms here — raw worms — by even broaching this topic, but I can’t help myself. Given the absurd number of passionate letters I got after writing about Tempe’s Rawsome! Cafe, I imagine now I’ll be hearing from equally frenzied pet owners…

Working Girl Blahs

Her eyes are glowing brightly, the way they always do after that third glass of Merlot. It’s a brilliant, giddy look of edges erased, a realization that the craziness of another workweek will be survived. I drink in her expression as deeply and gladly as the Sauvignon Blanc I’m sipping…

Take It to the Bianco

Chris Bianco, legendary chef-owner of Pizzeria Bianco and its next-door Bar Bianco, is opening a bakery, snack and hangout spot in central Phoenix named Pane Bianco. Located in a converted 1940s pawnshop at Central and Indian School, the spot (it’s not a cafe, insists Bianco) will serve what the chef…

Got Rice?

I was just trying to make some rice. It’s only about 10,000 degrees outside right now. So who wants to cook and heat up the house even more? Or even eat, really. I’m pretty sure I’m slowly melting, and it doesn’t do much for my appetite. Rice sounded great, cooked…

Summer of Sugar

When I was a kid, summer camp in Prescott meant meals of bland cafeteria food. Candy — even gum — was strictly forbidden. It was some stupid thing about shaping our young bodies for health and discipline. All packages from home were inspected for contraband goodies. Good behavior was rewarded…

Truck Stop Love

The note tacked on the wall at the Peppersauce Cafe offers it up in a friendly drawl. “If you’re a handyman who will work for food . . . and don’t have a sign . . . we have work, and we have food.” The sign’s something straight out of…

Retro Flavor

The San Carlos Hotel at Central and Monroe in downtown Phoenix was once a Valley hot spot. Developed in 1928, the 133-room property was a favorite of celebrities like Clark Gable and Mae West. But over the years, the San Carlos has fallen out of fashion. Beyond the outdated rooms…