BEST JEWISH DELI 2006 | Katz's Delicatessen and Restaurant | Food & Drink | Phoenix
We go to Katz's Deli not just because it's the best deli in town, but because it serves the most amazingly tasty, most authentic matzo brei we've ever shoveled into our piehole. The balance of matzo to egg is perfect, and the serving is large enough that we can eat the first half with salt (kosher, of course) and the rest with syrup, just like we like it. If we're there past breakfast, we always order the chopped liver, because we've learned the hard way that Katz's is the closest to New York-style chopped liver smooth and slightly peppery that we're going to find out west. The corned beef is also right on the money, and we order potato knishes to go because they're always the freshest in town. All these East Coast delicacies are served to us at a pleather tuck-and-roll booth in a room that hasn't been updated in decades not since someone put up all that wood paneling and those framed photos of local celebs chowing down. Even without the seal of approval provided by a photo of Wallace and Ladmo eating latkes, we'd make Katz's our first stop for deli food every time.
Tony's has been thriving in Sunnyslope since the late 1970s no easy feat, considering that chains like Yellow Mart, the Dolly Madison Bakery, and even Dunkin' Donuts packed up and left the area long ago. Owned and operated by the Abramo family (whose late patriarch, Anthony Abramo, emigrated from Italy), Tony's has always been the one-stop-shopping place for people who want to make real Italian meals with only the finest imported ingredients. The shelves of the deli are crammed full of pastas, sauces, cheeses, and seasonings you won't find anywhere else in Phoenix (there's even a section for imported chocolates). If you don't feel like buying all the ingredients for that ravioli recipe, Tony's has a full-service deli and kitchen, too, with hot pasta dishes made to order, and scrumptious sandwiches that are good to go, not to mention the best homemade cannoli in town. Oh, okay, we'll mention it.
Yeah, yeah, yeah. We know it takes more than slammin' barbecue sauce to garner award-winning 'cue. That's why this 20-year-old joint with its huge portions and reasonable prices is our favorite grub spot. The succulent sauce a vinegar-based Tennessee-style blend of ketchup, sugar, liquid smoke, mustard, lemon juice, and secret spices is definitely off the hook, but its purpose is to bring out the juicy cuts of meat and not to cover up some below-grade stuff. Pork ribs and chicken dinners, each served with your choice of two sides such as Cowbro beans, coleslaw, potato salad, corn, or tossed salad, will most definitely tickle taste buds. You may kill a tree with all the napkins you use, but the face-stuffing mess is definitely worth it.


Restaurant 28

Restaurant 28 serves up pretty good 'cue even if you don't hail from the Old North State. But if you're a homesick Tar Heel in search of the vinegary-spicy shredded pork that you were raised believing was the only kind of barbecue in the world, then you'll think you're in hog heaven once you cross the threshold of this tiny establishment. Actually, you'll have to ask for your barbecue "Carolina style," to get the good stuff. Otherwise, N.C. expat George Miller will serve you a sweet, tomatoey version that's from the western part of the state, mainly because he's found that most people don't cotton to traditional Carolina 'cue unless they're from back home. And don't worry; Miller's got hushpuppies, collard greens, chitlins, red beans and rice, red Kool-Aid to wash it down with, and Nutty Buddy pie for dessert. Someone crank up the James Taylor. We're gone to Carolina, son.
Jacob Tyler Dunn
The name sounds prim and proper, but Mrs. White's Golden Rule Cafe is all about guilty pleasures. We figure that's what's kept this restaurant in business for 42 years. Where else can you go for such perfectly crisp, golden fried catfish, savory Southern fried chicken, or thick, sizzling pork chops? This is the place to get your Dixie fix, right down to the buttery cornbread and homemade lemonade. All the dinners are only $8.80, a number you'll soon have memorized after a meal here it's scrawled in black marker all over the walls of this tiny spot, along with the full rundown of crave-worthy dishes and sides, like tender, smoky black-eyed peas or melt-in-your-mouth candied yams. Come prepared with a big appetite, and maybe make time for a mid-afternoon food-coma nap, too. Because at Mrs. White's, even if you're stuffed, you'll definitely want to clean your plate.


Cafe Sarajevo

Jackie Mercandetti
Now that the Balkan pot that threatened to boil over so many times in the '90s has eased to a simmer, it's time to explore that mysterious, beautiful bit of old Europe. What? Say your MasterCard is maxed out and you're two months late on your child support? Well, we can't all be Tony Bourdain, jet-setting all over the globe with a massive expense account. And really, when you get right down to it, long plane flights bite the big wang. So just venture on over to west PHX, where Cafe Sarajevo has Bosnian TV on the tube, murals of Bosnian cities Sarajevo, Gorazde and Mostar on the walls, an array of Balkan groceries, VCR tapes and CDs for sale, and, best of all, eats such as goulash, and these huge sammies made of flat, buttery bread that are referred to as cevapi, after the type of stubby, mixed meat sausages that make up the innards. What with everyone talking to each other in Serbo-Croatian, you can pretend you're in some Balkan cafe, awaiting some sloe-eyed beauty who's promised to join you. At least 'til you get the check.
No, it ain't much to look at, whether you're standing in the parking lot or in the foyer, but Silver Dragon is consistently first-rate, as long as you order from the Chinese menu instead of the more Americanized bill of fare. The Chinese version is for the slightly more adventurous, with hot pots of gingered beef, white fungus soup, beef chow fun, funky salted seafood dishes, and so forth. Service is friendly, doting if you're a regular. Portions are generous, and the price tag is very reasonable. Sure, ordering from the Chinese side of the menu will mean the occasional bizarro entree for us Occidentals, but that's part of the fun of eating at this family-run enterprise. Plus, how many times can you eat sweet-and-sour pork at the buffet down the street before you turn the color of the sauce?
Sarah Whitmire
Every Phoenix 'hood should be so blessed as the one near 32nd Street and Indian School Road, where Desert Jade takes up residence in what might have been an old steak house or pancake shack long ago. Inside the cottage-like structure, there are faded velvet booths and stuffed quail mounted over a fireplace that's been dormant for who knows how long. Despite the worn interior, the Chinese family that runs this enterprise offers snappy service right up until 10 most nights of the week, as well as the sort of Chinese comfort food that we need a weekly fix of to stay satisfied: sizzling rice soup, plump pork pot stickers, egg foo yung, mu shu pork, lemon chicken, tangerine beef, lettuce wraps, and pot after pot of hot tea. Nothing gourmet here, just standards well done. But that's enough when you don't want to drive to the far end of town or pay a lot for good eats in a casual atmosphere.



Johnny Chu continues to stir-fry the fun at Fate, where the young chef's unique sauces complement made-to-order dishes cooked with your choice of beef, chicken, shrimp or tofu. From the spinach bun starters to the sweet rice crackers that come at the end of every meal, we love Chu's twist of Fate.
Tirion Boan
Shimogamo is the kind of strip-mall haunt that you wouldn't likely stumble upon unless you happened to be visiting its more conspicuous neighbor, C-Fu Gourmet, or perhaps driving around looking for Lee Lee Oriental Market, located catty-cornered to the small establishment. No matter. If you love Japanese food, this jewel box of a restaurant is a more than worthy destination unto itself. Inside, the decor is modern and minimal, and the sushi bar is filled with Japanese regulars (always a good sign). The food, too, is straight outta Nippon: crisp gyoza, buttery Saikyo black cod, refreshing daikon radish salad. There are a few unusual offerings, from the simple (ochazuke rice porridge) to the complex (pork tenderloin katsu stuffed with shiso leaves, dried tomato and wasabi). For that matter, the sushi is uncommon as well so fresh you'll probably dream about it until your next visit to Shimogamo.

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