Based on what's seasonally available, the menu here evolves daily. And while you certainly won't be disappointed ordering à la carte, the four-, five-, and six-course tasting menus are the best way to get the full Binkley's experience. (Expect a whirlwind of amuses-bouches between courses, each one more clever than the last.) If we had to put our money on the next big regional contender for a James Beard award, this is it.
Go now, before the spotlight on Binkley's shines even brighter.
Entrees are just as exciting; try the succulent beef tenderloin with red wine-prickly pear reduction, pecan-crusted trout with tangy orange-maple vinaigrette, or the outstanding buttermilk chicken, spooned with creamy black pepper gravy and served with the best mashed sweet potatoes this side of the Mississippi. For dessert, the bread pudding, drizzled with a punchy sauce of lime and Jack Daniel's whiskey, is so warm and soothing, it'll make you doze off better than a campfire.
This isn't run-of-the-mill seafood with lemon and butter, but an exciting menu with Asian touches that enhance the freshness of the day's catch without overwhelming it. Reel in some crisp calamari with cashews and red chile, or a killer crab cake served with spicy remoulade. Entree highlights include steamed Hong Kong-style Chilean sea bass; sea scallops sautéed with macadamia nuts, fresh citrus, and brown butter; and salmon with black bean vinaigrette. If you think there's no such thing as great seafood in the middle of the desert, you clearly haven't been here yet.
Ever wonder why you can't make a steak at home that tastes like this? Well, there's something about a good, 1,800-degree searing that takes the meat from delicious to divine, and Donovan's really knows how to bring the heat. The classy atmosphere, with tuxedo-clad waiters, dark mahogany walls, and elegant artwork everywhere, makes eating here a special occasion, and the hefty wine list and expertly made cocktails make drinking here enjoyable, too. When we're jonesing for the best — and money's no object — Donovan's is at the top of our list.
Back in the kitchen, Anthony and daughter Sonia are cooking up a storm, using recipes from all over Italy, including the Di Francos' native region of Abruzzi. Look for simple, flavorful preparations, perfectly cooked pastas, and light sauces. None of the dishes will hit you over the head with richness — the Pernod cream sauce on the escargot ravioli tastes delicate, and even prosciutto and melted mozzarella don't overwhelm the succulent, sage-kissed saltimbocca. Spinach and ricotta-filled crespelle, and lasagna made with thin, homemade noodles, are also memorable.
You may finish your plate and feel perfectly content, but make way for dessert. After one bite of the luscious tiramisu, you'll thank us.
