It seemed there was a revolving door for restaurants at this vintage strip mall until Ranch House Grille came on the scene, tempting locals with cheap, old-fashioned eats at bargain prices. From huevos rancheros to Philly cheesesteaks, there are plenty of things to splurge on, but the hands-down star of this show is the chicken-fried steak. They call it "country fried steak," but nevertheless, it's an exemplary rendition of an American classic, with tender beef and golden, crunchy coating. Slathered in creamy, peppery country gravy or luscious pork chili verde, it goes down way too easily. And boy, what a portion — the thing takes up half the plate, but somehow we always manage to scarf it all down before we stop to think about the caloric repercussions.