When did fried calamari become so ubiquitous? They're everywhere, practically threatening the dominance of the mighty French fry it seems, served at neighborhood grills and fancy restaurants alike. We're fans, of course, but only when they're done right — and that's the catch. Really fresh squid, gently fried in a delicate batter, is a sublime treat that few kitchens have perfected. Andreoli Italian Grocer is one of those rare finds, which comes as no surprise if you've ever tasted chef-owner Giovanni Scorzo's cooking. We're so squid-crazy, though, that we've moved on to his grilled calamari, lightly marinated, barely charred, and so tender. If you've ever been to the Mediterranean, one bite of this will transport you to a relaxing seaside tavern in a flash. Which is why we can eat the whole plate ourselves.