First things first: How do they define their "Thai hot"? Here, at Thai E-San — which opened in CenPho earlier this year — even the medium is pretty tongue-searing. These folks mean business, from the taste of their curries. Sausage stuffed with ground pork and pork skin is an intriguing and uncommon dish, while the coconut soup takes a Thai restaurant standard and does it up right, with plenty of aromatic herbs. Masamun curry with roast duck, whole deep-fried bass with ginger, and spicy squid salad are a few more good picks among an exhaustive menu of stir-fries, noodles, curries, and fried rice dishes. And although barbecued Thai chicken may not sound very interesting, do try the house special marinated chicken, grilled to juicy perfection. You'll want to gnaw on the bones.