Look, nobody — least of all us — is taking shots at buffalo wings and fried cheese. But bar food can be an elegant affair, too, can't it? The latest offering from chef Dom Ruggiero of Hush Public House and Fire at Will is a swanky little number that's part bar, part restaurant, part lounge. But whichever style of seating suits you, the menu's the same, and it features the kind of bold, crisply executed Euro-American fare that has become Ruggiero's signature. A toasty popover is so flaky and hot that it instantly melts the cacio e pepe butter you slather all over it. Chilled poached mussels are joined by a perky pickled vegetable escabeche and smoky grilled Noble toast. The house pate en croute, set with port gelee and served with a swipe of mustard, is the pinnacle of the form. And if you really need to scratch the itch for fried cheese, the muffuletta croquettes — crispy, sesame-studded puffs of potato and provolone buried in a spicy fennel onion salad — is a mighty refined way to do it.