Waiting for Gourmet

Since the Arizona Center opened in 1990, Valley diners have been poised, fork and knife grasped firmly in hand, waiting to pounce on the many culinary wonders promised by downtown’s then-developers and politicos. Coupled with the Mercado, the center was to attract celebrated restaurants and breathe new culture into the…

Mill Rut

If you’ve ever toured the Haunted Mansion at Disneyland, you’ll feel right at home at Monti’s La Casa Vieja in Tempe. Picture hunkering wooden walls, patch-painted but inescapably old. Imagine yawning galleries hung with portraits of ancient, macabre and deceased former residents. Visualize mismatched furniture, creaking doors, alarming discrepancies in…

Taco Bellwether

One of my best resources for reviews of one-of-a-kind, out-of-the-way restaurants is word of mouth. Usually, these places don’t have the funds for elaborate marketing or benefit from having a big-name chef backing them. So when a friend mentions Mangos Mexican Cafe to me, I perk up at her description…

Noon Pie

It’s been several months since the hugely popular Pizzeria Bianco stopped offering lunch, yet my phone still rings with hungry diners’ lamentations — and speculations. Perhaps chef-owner Chris Bianco has gotten too big for his pizza pans, callers propose, and doesn’t want to serve the common lunchtime diner. It might…

Italian Nice

I grew up in a condiment-free household. It’s sad, but true. Our house was in a salad-dressing-free zone. Sauces were used only if they were imperative to the construction of a dish, and even then, sometimes not. Mayonnaise, mustard, ketchup, barbecue sauce or salsa on our food? Never. Even spices…

Nibbles ‘n’ Bits

TV Dinner: There’s no question that sizzle sells, but when is a menu recommendation just so much bravado? I applaud when a good restaurant earns media recognition, but I’m not sure that being told by a server to order a dish simply “because it has been on TV” is enough…

Pre-Fab Fixe Dinner

This past weekend was the 81st annual National Restaurant Association’s Restaurant & Hotel-Motel Show in Chicago, the largest industry gathering of the year. More than 2,000 exhibitors pitched their products in almost 900 restaurant-related categories, and I think I saw every single display. But truth be told, rather than showcasing…

Sake to Me

Most of the people who showed up at a recent sake tasting hosted by the Japan America Society of Phoenix knew what many Americans apparently don’t: Good sake should never be served hot.”The only place in the world you’ll get hot sake is here in the U.S.,” American sake maker…

Sprig Deal

My dining companion is messing with my head, or, should I say, my palate. He swears there’s lemon in the complimentary pre-dinner plate of iced watermelon we’re enjoying at the Green Leaf Cafe.I pluck another chunk of fruit, but there’s no lemon flavor here. I even dip my fingers in…

Razziberto’s

By the time you read this, chef Erasmo “Razz” Kamnitzer will be packing up his pots and pans and getting ready to shutter his eponymous Razz’s restaurant as he does every summer. From May 20 to September 1, the popular eatery goes dark as Kamnitzer and his family take some…

Date Shake

Dating is an evil practice. It forces people who barely know each other to spend awkward hours suffering through dinner and a movie, a night at the theater, or a weekend trying to find their way home from a foreign country that doesn’t even have the courtesy to use English…

Dunk Food

Basketball isn’t really my game. To the extent that I’m a sports fan at all, I like football and baseball. I’m really a movie buff. The signature snack of my pastime isn’t peanuts or Cracker Jacks, but popcorn. As appalling as ticket and concession prices have gotten at the movies,…

Sea Worthy

Move over, Awesome Blossom. There’s a new vegetable on the marketing block that’s threatening to steal diehard fans of French-fried onion and potato snacks.For the past 21 years, Phoenix-based Seaphire International, a spin-off of Planetary Design Corporation, has been researching and developing sea asparagus, as this exceptionally salty cultivar is…

Caviar Emptor

Gourmet of Russia, 4515 North 16th Street, 602-263-0200. Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Dinner, Saturday and Sunday, 5 p.m. to midnight.

Fork Chops

To draw on a line from Kermit the Frog, it’s not easy being mean.Life as a critic — be it theater, art, music, architecture or food — is a balancing act. Critics strive to be fair while both entertaining and informing their readers. A positive report is easy; everybody’s happy…

Seasons Eatings

Acacia at the Four Seasons, 10600 East Crescent Moon Drive, Scottsdale, 480-515-5700. Hours: Dinner, nightly, 6 to 10 p.m. (to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday). My dining companion and I are debating whether to order wine this evening. Not whether we want it, because of course we do. But whether…

Salad Genes

Menu writing is an art. Savvy restaurateurs go to great lengths to make their dishes sound appealing, waxing poetic about the virtues of even the commonest hamburger, meat loaf or macaroni and cheese. The more adjectives, usually, the more expensive the meal. I’m waiting for the day when it’s also…

Burn, Baby, Burn

I’m still at a loss as to why Mexico’s Cinco de Mayo is such a big deal in the U.S. when it’s not a big deal in Mexico. Most people I’ve polled labor under the illusion that the fifth of May is Mexican Independence Day. If you think that, you…

Arty Appetite

Ironwood Café, inside the Heard Museum, 2301 North Central, Phoenix, 602-252-8840. Hours: Breakfast and Lunch, Monday through Saturday, 9:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. As drivers on I-10 approach the Seventh Avenue and Seventh Street exits, signage directs them to Phoenix’s downtown cultural mecca. Longtime…

Diners Clubbed

It’s a wonder we don’t hear more news of restaurant staffers going completely postal. They’ve got the motives — long hours spent on their feet, often with demanding customers, and with little control over (but ultimate blame for) the kitchen, low pay and, too frequently, lousy tips. They’ve got the…

Growing My Way

“We want to be the Harry and David of certified organic produce. That’s our aspiration,” says Gina Verdugo, co-owner with Dan Wygocki of Boxed Greens Inc. Verdugo is referring to the much-copied originator of the now legendary Fruit-of-the-Month Club, a multimillion-dollar mail-order company founded in Medford, Oregon, during the Great…

Garlic Breadth

Va Bene Ristorante Italiano, 4025 East Chandler Boulevard, Phoenix, 480-706-4070. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner, daily, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Va Bene owner Sasha Cosic welcomes us warmly, leading us through small clusters of tables, inviting us to “sit, please, and enjoy.” He…