Thai Score

Royal Barge, 8140 North Hayden Road, Scottsdale, 480-443-1953. Hours: Lunch, Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner, Tuesday through Thursday, 5 to 9 p.m.; Friday through Sunday, 5 to 9:30 p.m. If my nose starts to run by the third bite, I know that I’m eating real Thai…

Salt Rifle

When I was growing up, my grandmother taught me never to “divorce the salt and pepper.” Even though I thought she was a little eccentric, I was careful to pass both the salt and pepper whenever anyone asked for just one or the other. Although the reason behind her rule…

Mexico Dependent

¡Cantina! del Pedregal, 34505 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-488-0715. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily; Dinner, 5 to 10 p.m. daily. The most overworked utensil in my kitchen is the blender. As part of my never-ending search for the perfect margarita, I’ve burned up a number of noisy…

The Lust Supper

The lights are dim, and shadows hide the speaker’s face. The voice is thin and strained. The tape is rolling and the confession begins. This isn’t a Frosted Flakes commercial, and it isn’t Oprah. This is someone who eats for sex, a seeker of aphrodisiacs. Some people will eat anything…

Little House on the Desert

Lon’s at the Hermosa, 5532 North Palo Cristi, Paradise Valley, 602-955-7878. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner, nightly, 6 to 10 p.m.; Ranch House Breakfast, Sunday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Julia Child is convinced that we have taken the fun out of food. This…

Chutney Swoop

One of the best things about traveling is bringing back souvenirs. Not surprisingly, my favorite way to recapture vagabond moments is with food. Spices, canned goods, jams and preserves are easy to pack, travel well and generally don’t annoy customs officials. I just got back from a trip to India…

Crust Figure

Classic Italian Pizza, Lake Country Village Shopping Center, 1030 East Baseline, Suite 156, Tempe, 480-345-8681. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; closed Monday. The world is divided between those who can live on pizza…

Candy, Darling

A long time ago, in the jungles of Mexico, a Mayan or Olmec Indian discovered a ridged, football-shaped fruit. It was filled with white, mildly sweet flesh and a few dozen hard, bitter, inchlong seeds. Ignoring the flesh, this early human let the seeds ferment, and then dry out. The…

Opa for Business

Greektown, 8519 North Seventh Street, 602-674-8881. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Saturday, noon to 4 p.m.; Dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m. Ever heard the story of Tantalus? Well, gather ’round, kiddies, here’s the grim fairy…

Reading Between the Wines

Valentine’s Day is approaching, and that has me thinking about romance. And sitting down and sipping a glass of wine or two is the perfect first date. It’s a great way to relax, talk about your day, and get to know the person you’re romancing. A first glass of wine…

Spit Happens

Joe’s Real Barbecue, Arizona Barbecue Cafe & Market, 301 North Gilbert Road, Gilbert, 480-503-3805. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Barbecue is a boy thing, my companion wants me to know. After all, it involves great…

Field of Greens

I spent my first 30 years in tomato hell. The only tomatoes I remember were a dull combination of pale skin, bland flavor and mealy texture. I’ve since learned about the wonderful effects of vine ripening. I’ve also learned that it takes a good farmer to grow a good tomato…

Blast From Repast

Durant’s, 2611 North Central, Phoenix, 602-264-5967. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m.; Friday, 4 to 11 p.m.; Saturday 5 to 11 p.m.; Sunday 4:30 to 10 p.m. When I first ate at Durant’s about 15 years ago, it…

Pomme Reader

A rose by any other name might be called an apple. That’s right; apples are in the rose family. So are pears, cherries, apricots, peaches, plums, strawberries and raspberries. Who knew? Apples, unlike their brethren, are winter’s fruit. Most varieties are available from early fall through spring. For all its…

Taco Bender

I moved to the Valley last February from Austin, Texas — a land of magical tacos, a taco Narnia. The tacos, which I dream about nearly every night, were stuffed with tender steak or white-meat chicken. They were marinated in flavorful sauces, with names like suiza, chipotle, ancho, pasilla, borracho,…

Food FX

Don’t hate me because my food is beautiful. It just turns out that way. It looked good before I went to culinary school. I never just throw food on a plate. And I can’t arrange food on any old plate. Joan Crawford hated wire clothes hangers; I hate paper plates…

Girth of a Nation

Seasons Rotisserie & Grill, 10050 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-443-1300. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner, nightly after 5:30 p.m. Is there such a thing as American Cuisine? The answer to that question depends on a smorgasbord of social, culinary and historic facts, as well…

Hive and Seek

Honey was the only sweetener available for most of man’s history. It was difficult and often dangerous to obtain. Honey poachers were often put to death. Our love for sweets has endured. Despite a wide choice of sweeteners on the market, honey remains popular. It’s almost a primal love. Man’s…

Season’s Eatings

For many years, my family celebrated the holidays by ourselves. All the major groups of relatives were located 38 hours away by car so we rarely saw them. Most of our interactions with cousins and aunts and uncles took place via the U.S. Postal Service. Then came cheap airfares. And…

Dulce Treat

Why does it seem like every out-of-town guest wants to drive to Mexico? “Because it’s so close,” they plead. They’ve obviously never endured that stretch of I-10 between Phoenix and Tucson. If you’ve lived in Phoenix long enough, you’ve probably been coerced, or victimized, into the dreaded Trip to Nogales…

Nut Case

Growing up in Arizona, I’ve never had a strong sense of season. For starters, we only have two: hot and warm. Being a seasonal dyslexic, I relied on artificial clues to tell when the seasons were changing. As spring approached, the population dwindled, and people wore short-sleeved shirts with their…

Second Helpings

Message to Santa: Peace on Earth? Goodwill toward men? A Christmas bonus? The Big Guy at the North Pole never seems to deliver on my personal, end-of-year wishes. Maybe this year he’ll at least consider my professional requests. Plenty of restaurants in this town need to get their acts in…