SECOND HELPINGS

Love Me Slender: For almost all of recorded history, an “eating disorder” meant only one thing: You weren’t getting enough food. A few years ago, a historian did a study of dreams in the Middle Ages. What did people 500 years ago lust after? Power? Sex? Fame? Nope. Food. In…

SECOND HELPINGS

Love Me Slender: For almost all of recorded history, an “eating disorder” meant only one thing: You weren’t getting enough food. A few years ago, a historian did a study of dreams in the Middle Ages. What did people 500 years ago lust after? Power? Sex? Fame? Nope. Food. In…

NIGHT AND THE CITY

Copper Creek Steakhouse and Grille, Arizona Center, 455 North Third Street, Phoenix, 253-7100. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4 to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 4 to 9 p.m. Anyone who recalls the downtown Phoenix of…

A LA SHOPPING CART

Reay’s Cafe at Reay’s Ranch Market, 9689 North Hayden, Scottsdale, 596-9496. Hours: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., seven days a week. For well-heeled gourmands, a day spent cruising the aisles of a fancy supermarket can spark the same kind of intense excitement that a trip to…

SECOND HELPINGS

Reviewing the Situation: Even though I’ve been writing the Cafe column for more than two years, I’m continually astonished by the number of people–readers, restaurant owners, publicists–who still don’t understand the two guiding principles of restaurant reviewing. First, no review can be credible if the restaurant knows a critic is…

EAT YOUR HEART OUT

Rancho Pinot Grill, Town & Country Shopping Center, 4709 North 20th Street, Phoenix, 468-9463. Hours: Dinner, Monday through Saturday, 5:30 to 10 p.m. Everyone knows that death and taxes are inescapable, though they’d be somewhat easier to bear if they came in that order. But there’s a third inevitability that…

SECOND HELPINGS

Be My Valentine: If your sweetie requires high-end, high-up dining, the Valley offers plenty of choices. Among the best: Top of the Rock (the Buttes, 225-9000): This beautiful room provides a 360-degree panoramic view of the Valley. The Southwestern-themed food looks just as good. If the lobster Napoleon is on…

PADDY MELD

For years, if someone mentioned Asian food, visions of tangerine beef, mee krob or tempura danced through my head. Oriental cuisine always meant dining on Chinese, Thai or Japanese specialties. But two factors are changing the Asian-dining landscape in the Valley. First, diners are growing increasingly bold and sophisticated. After…

SECOND HELPINGS

The Write Stuff: How long should a critic wait before reviewing the fare at a new restaurant? Most of my colleagues like to give new places several months’ grace, letting them work out the opening kinks. I’m inclined to be a bit less charitable. When Broadway producers are getting a…

TENDERFOOT VITTLESWAGON YARD STEAKHOUSE / RUSTLER’S ROOSTE

Wagon Yard Steakhouse, 2625 East Bell Road, Phoenix, 992-6860. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Sunday through Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.; Thursday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. January, in the Valley of the Sun: Snowbirds, in recreational vehicles large enough to have their own zip code, drive 20…

TENDERFOOT VITTLESWAGON YARD STEAKHOUSE / RUSTLER’S ROOSTE

Wagon Yard Steakhouse, 2625 East Bell Road, Phoenix, 992-6860. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Sunday through Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.; Thursday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. January, in the Valley of the Sun: Snowbirds, in recreational vehicles large enough to have their own zip code, drive 20…

TENDERFOOT VITTLESWAGON YARD STEAKHOUSE / RUSTLER’S ROOSTE

Wagon Yard Steakhouse, 2625 East Bell Road, Phoenix, 992-6860. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Sunday through Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.; Thursday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. January, in the Valley of the Sun: Snowbirds, in recreational vehicles large enough to have their own zip code, drive 20…

BAHIA KINO

Bahia Kino, 24 East Broadway, Phoenix, 243-9684. Hours: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., seven days a week. Modern technology provides us Valley dwellers with lots of pleasure-enhancing marvels that nature neglected to furnish: cool summer nights, pay-per-view Suns games and an ample supply of seafood. Is…

OODLES OF NOODLES

Romano’s Macaroni Grill, 7245 East Gold Dust, Scottsdale, 596-6676. Hours: Dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4 to 11 p.m. Sometimes, in my blacker moments, I think Holden Caulfield came to an honorable end. The protagonist of The Catcher in the Rye couldn’t stand the…

CHAMPIONS OF BREAKFAST

Original Pancake House, 6840 East Camelback, Scottsdale, 946-4902. Breakfast hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. All my holiday eating is behind me. Literally. You can’t miss it. Noshing on Chex party mix, gorging on turkey dressing and washing it all down with eggnog is not the way…

BORDER HOUSE REACH

El Encanto, 6248 East Cave Creek Road, Cave Creek, 488-0024. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, 11 a.m. to close, seven days a week. Whenever Rod, my auto mechanic, sees the old jalopy roll in, he can confidently extend his annual South Seas cruise an extra week. During this holiday time, I…

YOUTH MUST BE SERVED

Bssghetti, 1656 South Alma School, Mesa, 820-8080. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Dinner, Monday through Saturday, 4:30 to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 4 to 9 p.m. Uh-oh. It’s Christmas-vacation time. Time for lots of family togetherness. Lots and lots of…

PERFECTLY REGIONAL EXPLANATIONS

Sam’s Cafe, Arizona Center, 455 North Third Street, Phoenix, 252-3545. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to midnight. Sophisticated, well-traveled food lovers not only always seem to know where to get a great meal, they also instinctively know where…

MALL WONDER

Laguna Cafe, 7373 Scottsdale Mall, Scottsdale, 994-5859. Hours: Dinner, 5 to 11 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday. One of the Valley’s best “good to be alive” urban settings is the mall by Scottsdale Center for the Arts. Here you’ll find soothing fountains, eye-catching sculpture, grass for lounging and walking paths filled…

DILL ME IN

Chompie’s Restaurant, Deli, Bagel Factory, Bakery and Caterer, 3202 East Greenway Road, Phoenix, 971-8010. Hours: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, Tuesday through Thursday, 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday, 6 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Saturday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Monday, 6 a.m. to 3…

DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

Lathrops on Central, 5202 North Central, Phoenix, 266-9555. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 5:30 to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5:30 to 10 p.m. Even folks without big bucks can occasionally experience the luxuries that daily life ordinarily denies them. Park…

SPREAD’S THE WORD

Charlie’s, Crescent Hotel at Koll Center, 2620 West Dunlap, Phoenix, 943-8200. Hours: Sunday brunch, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Parked along I-17 on an unlovely west-side stretch of Dunlap, the Crescent Hotel hardly merits a second look from a passing car. So I was seriously discombobulated when I sat down…