Michael Josephson knows all there is to know about ethics. He talks on interminably. Squat, intense and bespectacled, he keeps it up . . . talking . . . moving . . . gesturing. With a great need to be heard, Josephson holds a mic close to his mouth. Unfortunately,…
As much as I like Gabriel’s, it is a restaurant that raises a few small, niggling questions. Who is Gabriel, for instance? Why is its menu shaped like a painter’s palette? And, continuing this line of questioning, why are some of the offerings named after well-known paintings and painters? Easy…
Here’s a concept that signals the beginning of a new decade. A Vietnamese restaurant that is a) part of an international chain, b) pleasant and attractive, c) authentic. Pho Bang Restaurant, for those of you who haven’t yet tried it, is all of the above. It is sparkling clean. It…
As I write this, I am noshing on half of an obscenely huge sandwich, leftovers from “research” conducted earlier in the day. This has been the pattern all week. For me, eating in a Jewish delicatessen is a multimeal proposition. There is no way I can consume everything in one…
Phoenix is not Chicago. Nor is it Buffalo or Minneapolis or Milwaukee. We just don’t have the large communities of Eastern Europeans that our cold urban cousins along the Great Lakes do. This explains why we have such a dearth of Czechoslovakian, Hungarian and Polish restaurants–not to mention Lithuanian, Ukrainian,…
The question I’m most frequently asked–after “What’s your favorite restaurant?”–is “Where’s the best place to eat Thai food in Phoenix?” Until recently, my answer was “Nowhere.” After a couple of visits to Siamese Kitchen, however, I have a new, more positive response. Two of my biggest complaints about Thai food…
I’m happy. I have found two restaurants I like. Both are Italian. Both are trattorias. Both are places to inscribe in your Rolodexes pronto. Preferably with indelible ink. But first, some of you may wish to know, what is a trattoria? Is it any different than a “regular” Italian restaurant?…
For those of you who have already tossed out that freebie Hallmark calendar you pocketed last December, August 8 is Grandparents’ Day. Which raises an important question: How does one commemorate Grandparents’ Day? With a card? With a gift? With a trip to Tom Tate’s? Heck if I know. When…
In the center of the buffet table, water drips from an ice sculpture reading “BIO 2.” Behind the chafing dishes and metal trays, staff members stand at the ready in starched whites and toques. Tonight’s buffet in the Sundance Cafe at the Sheraton Tucson El Conquistador Golf and Tennis resort…
I haven’t visited San Diego in a long time, not since I was a little girl. The zoo is what I remember most about the trip, the children’s section in particular. Color slides from the family archives substantiate my memories. Lights, please? Slide one. Here I am, four years old,…
If you wait long enough, it will come. This is my overriding feeling about Phoenix. Case in point: Korean restaurants. It seemed, for a number of years, that cravings for pickled cabbage or sweet-hot barbecued beef could only be satisfied on the Valley’s west side. Phoenix’s first Korean restaurant, Korean…
I didn’t touch the pizza. I swear. I merely utter the word “sexaholic” during the course of conversation and kerplunk, our gorgeous artichoke-feta-bacon-hearts-of-palm-potato masterpiece is face down on the Mexican-tile floor of Euro Cafe, kersplattered all over. Talk about the power of the spoken word. Naturally, the devastated pizza and…
Ah, the Fourth of July. A time to celebrate our independence, our history, our united state of ethnic diversity. What better way to commemorate the melting pot that is our nation than to visit one of the Valley’s Mexican-Chinese (or Chinese-Mexican) restaurants? No doubt you’ve passed one or two of…
Dana Centrella is a fish fanatic. This Delaware native is a man with a mission: to educate and inform Phoenicians about fish. Specifically, he wants us to know that fish does not have to taste “fishy.” Neither does it have to be expensive. And you don’t need fancy sauces to…
You’re trying to save money. Or maybe you’re struggling to make ends meet. Times are hard, but there are a few things you’re not willing to give up. Like a meal out with the family or friends every once in a blue moon. But where can you go if you’re…
I’ll be honest with you. Normally, I don’t eat breakfast. I get up, drink something hot, and when my stomach starts interfering with my work or fun, I give it something just large enough to keep it quiet until its next meal. Sometimes that’s lunch. Sometimes that’s dinner. This is…
When I walk into the elegant new Ruth’s Chris Steak House in Scottsdale, I am struck by a singular thought: Scotch. An obvious case of stimulus-response, if there ever was one, for Ruth’s Chris takes me back to the late Seventies, when I lived in New York and worked in…
I’ve been thinking about Perry Como lately. Specifically, I’ve been thinking about his song “Catch a Falling Star.” If you’re unaware of Como’s scintillating 1958 hit, the idea conveyed in the song is “Catch a falling star and put it in your pocket” . . . something, something . …
Summer is busting out all over. And in Tempe, Japanese restaurants are sprouting up like mung beans! In the last few months, two new restaurant-sushi bars have opened within mere blocks of each other. And, while both offer fine Japanese dining, neither is truly authentic–or truly wonderful. In the case…
Roaming tourists with minicams. Well-preserved older women resembling TV psychiatrists. Tables of young, upwardly mobile people dressed in suits and ties, cocktail sheaths, gold jewelry and French braids. Out-of-town businessmen relaxing in plaid shirts and Levi’s Dockers after a hard day of conferencing in Phoenix. As evening falls, these are…
A guest from Minneapolis stayed with me recently. We went out to eat a few times. Over dinner, she told me she distrusts restaurant critics. “I almost always assume they’re on the take,” she said. “Or else, if they rave about some place, it’s because that restaurant is an advertiser.”…
Hunks of yellow margarine sizzle madly on a tabletop grill. Thin slices of red, rare beef stick to its surface and darken dramatically. From beneath the gas burner, smoke begins to billow. This potential 911 scene takes place at my table in #1 Restaurant, a new Vietnamese place in a…
