Regional Doubt

Coyote Grill, 7077 East Bell, Scottsdale, 480-922-8424. Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., seven days a week; Dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 4:30 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4:30 to 11 p.m. Back in 1994, an unpretentious Southwestern restaurant opened at 32nd Street and Greenway Road, one of the…

Second Helpings

Bow WOW! I’ve never been much of an animal lover, unless the creatures in question were roasted, grilled or broiled. Yes, we do have a cat, but that’s only because my wife got one while I was foolish enough to go out of town for a few days eight years…

Vittle Italy

Cafe Terrace, 4151 North Marshall Way, Scottsdale, 480-947-9364. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Dinner, Thursday through Saturday, until 10 p.m. Closed Sunday. “Ego cogito, ergo sum,” wrote philosopher Rene Descartes: “I think, therefore I am.” That revelatory insight convinced him of this own reality. From…

Second Helpings

The Price Isn’t Right: Oscar Wilde once defined a cynic as one who knows “the price of everything and the value of nothing.” Well, I’m starting to feel more and more cynical. That’s because Valley restaurant prices are starting to get way out of hand. When I first started this…

The Mex Files

Acapulco Bay Co., 3030 North 68th Street, Scottsdale, 480-429-1990. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., seven days a week. Today’s Jeopardy! answer: Triple-digit temperatures, crooked politicians and Mexican restaurants. The correct question: Name three things Phoenix doesn’t need any more of. The census bureau says that the…

Second Helpings

Hell No, We Won’t Go: The 1998-1999 Valley restaurant season has been remarkable. Eddie Matney, Christopher Gross and Mark Tarbell have all undertaken new ventures. Michael Monti, Paul Fleming and the Marco Polo folks are starting up big-time steak houses. The growing northeast Valley has attracted Coyote Grill, Tomaso’s 2000,…

Second Helpings

Tip Top: The food may be bad. The service may be dreadful. But unless servers pour hot coffee on their laps, or insects run across their plates, most diners can be counted on to leave a tip. Last year, Americans left about $12 billion on the table, an average of…

San Francisco Trite

Fog City Diner, 7014 East Camelback Road (Fashion Square Mall), Scottsdale, 874-2300. Hours: Lunch and dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Phoenix is the sixth-largest city in the country. Maricopa County is the fastest-growing county in the country. But…

Won Ton Abandon

Flo’s, 14850 North Frank Lloyd Wright Boulevard, Scottsdale, 661-8883. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday, noon to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 4:30 to 10 p.m. Most things in life are routinely predictable, aren’t they? You expect your blind date to be ugly. You can…

Second Helpings

Channel Eight Is Enough: If you watch public television’s KAET-TV, you’ve probably seen enough promos for its new cooking series, Savor the Southwest, to think you’ve already sat through all 13 episodes. The shows are hosted by Barbara Fenzl, a local food maven who has run Les Gourmettes Cooking School…

Leave It to Bistro

Convivo, 7000 North 16th Street, Phoenix, 997-7676. Hours: Dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, 5:30 to 10 p.m. Some restaurants make me want to throw in my napkin and look for another line of work. No, it’s not the lousy places that inspire fantasies of a career change. Bad restaurants actually stir…

Second Helpings

Critical Face Off: By now, even folks who don’t care anything about restaurants or critics have heard the Ruth Reichl story. The former all-powerful restaurant reviewer at the New York Times (she just resigned to take the editor’s job at Gourmet), Reichl was recognized by the owner when she tried…

Outta the Park

Alice Cooper’stown, 101 East Jackson, Phoenix, 253-7337. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday, Saturday and event nights, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. It’s spring, and our senses are awakening after a long winter’s hibernation. Watch the blooming wildflowers swaying in the breeze. Sniff…

Second Helpings

How Not to Succeed in Business: Will somebody please explain to me how Michael Jordan could have ever thought of giving up basketball for baseball? Can somebody tell me why Mel Gibson insisted on playing Hamlet? The urge to be something we’re not isn’t confined to athletes and movie stars…

Second Helpings

Blame It on Rio: One of the restaurant industry’s hottest concepts is the rodizio. Think of it as a Brazilian grill, featuring endless courses of skewered meats, lavishly presented. Typically, waiters dressed as gauchos bring sizzling, sword-size skewers to the table and dramatically slice everything from beef to chicken hearts…

The Bitter Trend

Chaparral, 5402 East Lincoln Drive (Marriott’s Camelback Inn), Paradise Valley, 948-1700. Dinner: 6 to 10 p.m., seven days a week. About a year ago, management at the five-diamond, superluxe Camelback Inn resort decided to jettison everything about the high-end Chaparral restaurant except the name. No, the place wasn’t exactly broke…

Mr. Tea

Biltmore Afternoon Tea, Arizona Biltmore Resort & Spa, 24th Street and Missouri, 955-6600. Afternoon Tea: 2:30 to 4:30 p.m., seven days a week. How come Americans drink coffee instead of tea? You can trace the answer back to 1773, when 60 men, dressed as Indians, dumped 340 chests of tea…

Second Helpings

Variations on a Theme: Ever since Hard Rock Cafe became an international success a generation ago, copycat theme restaurants have rushed in to nab a share of the market. In what’s called the “eatertainment” business, no imitator has made as big a splash as Planet Hollywood. For several years after…

“I Am Not a Cook!”

Nixon’s, 2501 East Camelback (Shops at the Esplanade), Phoenix, 852-0900. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Dinner, Sunday, 4 to 11 p.m. A grateful nation remembers its first president as the “Father of Our Country.” He’s famous for saying, “I cannot tell a lie.”…

Second Helpings

Art of Cooking: Some weeks back in this space, I took a few swipes at a new book, Dining Out: Secrets From America’s Leading Critics, Chefs, and Restaurateurs, by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page. I thought the level of pretension was pretty high. What most rankled was the notion that…

A Change of Peso

What kind of south-of-the-border traveler are you? Do you get on an airplane and head to a fancy resort? Do you stay where the drinking water is pure, the swimming pool is heated, the flies have been banned, all major credit cards are accepted and the employees speak faultless English?…

Second Helpings

Steakout: Do you think this is still a cow town? Judging by the number of new steak restaurants that are opening, you’d be right. The only other place on earth where cows receive such reverential worship is India. Three upscale steak houses are set to do business in Scottsdale, where…