OYS N THE HOOD

Pastrami’s, 5930 West Greenway Road, Glendale, 938-5900. Hours: Breakfast and Lunch, Sunday and Monday, 9 a.m to 2 p.m.; Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. For all the sophistication and variety on the Valley eating scene, there is still one huge, gaping hole in…

SECOND HELPINGS

Yanqui, Come Here: What’s pressure for a restaurant critic? It’s having to choose a dinner spot for fussy out-of-town friends. One of my group, having gone through Weight Watchers’ assertiveness training, is notoriously hard to please. Watching her calories on a trip, she once pulled into McDonald’s and ordered a…

MORN A MAN CAN TAKE

Munch a Bagel, 5114 North Seventh Street, Phoenix, 264-1975. Hours: Breakfast and Lunch, Tuesday through Sunday, 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. Are you one of those morning people who wake up at full speed and leap out of bed hungry and rarin’ to go? Do you race to the kitchen…

SECOND HELPLINGS

Trays of Our Lives, Part Deux: Seven Maricopa County employees have passed along their disagreement with my negative assessment of Sutton’s, a downtown cafeteria located at 101 West Jefferson, in the Superior Court building. They write: We are wondering who you think YOU are, and for what purpose do you…

SECOND HELPINGS

Middle East Shift: One of my favorite mom-and-pop eating and grocery spots, Yusef’s, at 15238 North Cave Creek Road in Phoenix, has changed hands. The former proprietor, sensing the possibility of peace and prosperity, is thinking of returning to his native Jordan. Let’s hope the new owners keep up the…

CALCULATING PIE TO TWO PLACES

Pizzeria Bianco, Town & Country Shopping Center, 4709 North 20th Street, Phoenix, 381-1779. Hours: Lunch, Tuesday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, 5:30 to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 5:30 to 9 p.m. There’s a tale about an old man, a boy and a donkey that has…

SECOND HELPINGS

Be My Valentine: If your sweetie requires high-end, high-up dining, you’ve got lots of choices. Among the best: Top of the Rock (the Buttes, 2000 Westcourt Way, Tempe, 225-9000): Dark enough to take the other woman–or man–this circular room furnishes a beautiful, 360-degree view of the Valley. But the food…

FARE TO REMEMBER

Terrace Dining Room, Phoenician resort, 6000 East Camelback, Phoenix, 941-8200. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Dinner, Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday, 6 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 6 to 11 p.m. Guys, let me tell you what your sweetie doesn’t want for Valentine’s Day…

SECOND HELPINGS

Nogales Nibbles: You can stay north of the border and get in some pretty entertaining noshing and sloshing, too. The sloshing takes place at Arizona Vineyards, a real hoot. The wine masters here eschew noble grapes like Cabernet, Merlot or Pinot Noir–“too expensive,” they say. Instead, they buy table grapes…

MOUTH OF THE BORDER

“Seftel,” barked my editor, “are you interested in doing some foreign travel and eating?” You bet I was. Visions of wandering about France, Michelin Guide in one hand and thousands of expense-account francs in the other, danced through my head. Or maybe the boss had something more exotic in mind,…

BUENOS GNOCCHI

La Locanda, 10201 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 998-2822. Hours: Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 5 to 10:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m. Some scientists speculate that biology is the key to understanding human happiness. Chemical balance, smooth neurological function, even something in our…

SECOND HELPINGS

Food for Thought: I’ve spent a few days digesting a thoughtful new book about Americans’ attitudes about eating. It’s titled Consumed: Why Americans Love, Hate and Fear Food, by Michelle Stacey (Simon & Schuster, $22). Her conclusion: When it comes to mealtime, most of our notions about what’s on the…

MEX SURROGATE

Chevys, 2650 East Camelback, Phoenix, 955-6677. Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. On Wall Street, they’re called analysts. At the racetrack, they’re called touts. In the business world, they’re called consultants. They’re all people who claim they can make…

OH, MY ACHING CAMELBACK:

The appearance of Chevys on the glitzy Camelback corridor continues a disturbing trend along this high-profile strip. While several glittering, one-of-a-kind restaurants still dot the stretch between 20th and 40th streets–Christopher’s, Vincent’s, RoxSand, the new Tarbell’s–the street seems headed in an increasingly dubious direction. First of all, it’s becoming home…

SECOND HELPINGS

Fish The tasty, nonthreatening seafood fare at China Legend reminded me of the time I watched a graduate-school pal of mine at Berkeley prepare a Chinese fish dinner. A lanky, Midwestern blonde, Ann had spent years in China, and now was pursuing a Ph.D. in Chinese literature. She had also…

THE ASIA CONSENT

Bamboo Garden, 9201 North 29th Avenue, Phoenix, 944-2388. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Saturday, noon to 10 p.m.; closed Sunday. A lawyer’s task is to make sure justice prevails. But the quest for justice becomes a lot more satisfying after the client agrees…

SECOND HELPINGS

Dough Boy: If I were presumptuous enough to make a small addition to the Lord’s Prayer, it would be this: “Our Father, which art in heaven, Hallowed be thy name. Thy kingdom come. Thy will be done on earth as it is in heaven. Give us this day our daily…

WEST SIDE FORAY

Jazelle’s Restaurant, 3422 West Glendale Avenue, Phoenix, 841-4776. Hours: Lunch, Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.; Dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m. The first week of January is like a seven-day morning after. Pants are tight, wallets are thin, holiday hopes are behind us. And by…

DOGIE HOUSES

Rawhide Steakhouse, 23023 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 502-1880. Hours: Lunch, Friday through Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Dinner, 5 to 10 p.m., seven days a week. This time of year fills most of us Valley residents with dread. That’s because those aren’t sleigh bells we hear jangling–it’s our nerves…

SECOND HELPINGS

Happy New Year: Did you make a killing in derivatives in 1994? Spill hot McDonald’s coffee on your lap and collect a cool half-million? Vote Republican? If so, you’ll enjoy celebrating at these gourmet Valley resort restaurants. Arizona Kitchen, Wigwam Resort, 300 East Indian School, Litchfield Park. An exceptionally imaginative…

ROAD FILL

Lakeshore Restaurant, 14011 North Bush Highway, at Saguaro Lake, 984-5311. Hours: Breakfast and Lunch, Monday and Tuesday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, Wednesday and Sunday, 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Thursday through Saturday, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Weekends aren’t what they used to be. Once,…

SECOND HELPINGS

Tip Talk: For some reason, tipping arouses violent emotions in some people. They resent it with a passion, and, in a way, I can understand their feelings. After all, the reasoning runs, we already have to throw in an extra 7 percent of the bill to pay the tax. Why…