On the Road: Thank goodness the weekend in northern Arizona (see this week’s Cafe column) wasn’t my only summer escape. I spent some time in Quebec, Canada, maybe the most charming town in North America. Sure, I got worked up over the tourist sites. But eating was just as much…
Crocodile Cafe, 525 South Mill, Tempe, 966-5883. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to midnight. Even though summer vacation is now in full swing, within a few weeks 40,000 ASU students will be drifting into Tempe, gearing up for…
Binge and Splurge: In this casual town, where sometimes even shoes and socks are a form of overdressing, there aren’t too many opportunities to put on your best duds. But you’ll want to haul them out for dinner at Mary Elaine’s. These days, this austerely elegant room is at the…
Pasta Brioni, 4416 North Miller, Scottsdale, 994-0028. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner, Monday through Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m. I spotted one of the giant new shopping centers that seem to be springing up these days in our sprawling Valley like mushrooms after a…
Up on the Woof: My friends know I’m not much of an animal lover. Or, to be more precise, a pet lover. Despite my feelings, we’ve had a creature sleeping on the premises for six years, a cat my wife took in when I made the mistake of leaving town…
Via DeLosantos, 9120 North Central, Phoenix, 997-6239. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. There are few experiences in life more satisfying than having your prejudices confirmed…
Share the Fantasy: When you eat out four or five times a week, like I do, it’s only natural to fantasize about how you’d operate a restaurant. Not that I’d ever consider such a move, not in a million years. It’s grueling work, as well as financially perilous. But it…
Brio, 7243 East Camelback, Scottsdale, 947-0795. Hours: Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 5 to 11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m. to midnight; Sunday, 5 to 10 p.m. Sometimes, there’s no substitute for experience. A couple of veteran Valley restaurateurs have recently opened new Scottsdale dining spots. Tycoon Paul Fleming is…
Dead and Berried: That’s what I feel like after most meals out these days. Will someone please explain to me why just about every other dish that lands on my table seems to have berries in it? Are all the chefs in town working from the same recipe book? I’m…
Wrigley Mansion, 2501 East Telawa Trail, Phoenix, 955-4079. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, 6 to 8:30 p.m. Eating at a landmark spot gives most folks a real tingle. When you dine at the Eiffel Tower in Paris, the World Trade Center…
Chocolate Alert: Sampling a piece of fine chocolate can be a dangerous experience. Like first-growth wine, good coffee or a slab of prime-grade beef, top-quality chocolate can be addicting. What’s worse, once you’ve had it, it’s almost impossible to be satisfied with the nonprimo stuff that you’ve enjoyed in blissful…
Some Like It Haute: What’s the Valley’s best Mexican restaurant? Italian restaurant? Chinese restaurant? You can make a case for at least ten restaurants in each category. But when it comes to high-end, gourmet dining, there’s only one contender in town: Christopher’s. I recently revisited chef Christopher Gross’ flagship restaurant…
Carvers, 10825 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 998-8777. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 4:30 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4:30 to 10:30 p.m. A few weeks ago, I reviewed Morton’s of Chicago and Ruth’s Chris Steak House, the Valley’s two premier…
Jacka’s Back Alley Grille, 5739 West Glendale Avenue, Glendale, 274-1998. Hours: Dinner, Thursday through Saturday, 5 to 9 p.m. Build them, and I will come. That’s what I’ve been telling disgruntled west-siders, who continually urge me to unearth fine-dining restaurants in their corner of town. The problem? Until recently, it…
Star Light, Star Bright: Almost two centuries ago, the French philosopher of the kitchen, gastronome Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, observed that “the discovery of a new dish does more for the happiness of mankind than the discovery of a star.” The man was absolutely right. I recently discovered a new dish at…
Wine & Kebab, 10135 East Via Linda, Scottsdale, 614-1414. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Dinner, Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m. During the Cold War, one wag tried to sum up the difference between the Soviet and American systems. “Under communism,” he explained, “man…
Java Man, Part One: I generally do a pretty good job suppressing my rare snobby tendencies. But I admit I’m insufferable when it comes to the subject of coffee. That’s because I can’t afford too many luxuries in life: no Lexus, no two-week cruises, no Chateau d’Yquem after dinner. But…
Cafe heavy-hitter Howard Seftel is on vacation. This week, we’ve asked chef RoxSand Scocos, who, with her husband Spyros, owns RoxSand restaurant and bar (2594 East Camelback), to step up to the plate, so to speak. She’s just taped a slot for PBS’ America’s Rising Star Chefs, is slated for…
Morton’s:The Steakhouse, Shops at the Esplanade, 2425 East Camelback, Phoenix, 955-9577. Hours: Dinner, Monday through Saturday, 5:30 to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 5 to 10 p.m. Excess on occasion is moderating. It keeps moderation from becoming a habit. –W. Somerset Maugham Ever since we Homo sapiens reared up on our hind…
Sunday Services: There aren’t too many activities that can get me out of my pajamas and out of the house before noon on Sunday. One of them is Sunday brunch at the Terrace Dining Room, at the Phoenician. I hadn’t been there for a while. Some things have changed: Prices…
A Martian walks into a bake shop and calls over the proprietor. “What are those little wheels?” the alien asks. “Those aren’t wheels,” replies the baker, “they’re bagels. Try one.” The Martian takes a bite. “Man,” he exclaims, his face brightening, “these would go great with cream cheese and lox.”…
Book Notes: With some foods, you have to make an effort before you reach the good stuff. Think of peeling artichokes or shucking oysters. It’s the same with some books. In the case of Kitchens: The Culture of Restaurant Work, a new study by sociologist Gary Alan Fine (University of…
