Sara Crocker
Audio By Carbonatix
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March is high season in metro Phoenix, and Valley restaurants were slammed. But among the spring training crowds, spring breakers and snowbirds, we managed to snag a few tables and dishes worth writing home about.
One of the best meals we tried last month was served on a super-loaded styrofoam plate. We tried two different twists on classic desserts that left us wanting another. And a new bar cemented itself as a destination for cocktail fans.
Here are the six best bites and sips we tasted at Phoenix restaurants last month.
Combo Plate at El Pollo Supremo
221 W. University Drive, Tempe
There’s something to be said for simplicity on a menu, and there are few better examples than at El Pollo Supremo. The no-frills, cash-only, counter-service spot near Arizona State University features chargrilled chicken, beef and a few simple sides. The restaurant’s combo option lets diners sample a little bit of everything. A styrofoam plate is laden with strips of juicy, lime-kissed tri tip, fiery red achiote-seasoned chicken, creamy pinto beans, a bright tomato salsa, pickled onions and tortillas. This combo is most satisfying when everything is piled into a near-translucent flour tortilla. Each element plays a role, adding different textures and flavors that, together, are greater than the sum of their parts.
Tirion Boan
Invitation Only at Still & Barrel
5812 N. 16th St.
The little sister of the longstanding uptown restaurant Phoenix City Grille made its debut in February. Still & Barrel builds on the restaurant’s reputation for its great spirits list, with a bar dedicated to whiskey and bourbon. Customers can enjoy flights, tastings and cocktails, including our recent favorite, the Invitation Only. This $20 sipper is made with Jack Daniel’s Barrel Proof Single Barrel Rye, Ford’s Gin, Crème De Pêche, Il Mallo Nocino, Martini & Rossi Dry Vermouth and Carpano Classico Sweet Vermouth. The amber-hued elixir is served up in a thin-stemmed martini glass, with a side of candied walnuts. All of its different components work together to create a balanced drink with depth that leaves you lingering after each sip. The rich oak flavors of the rye play with the juniper and citrus notes of the gin. The sweetness of peach dances with the bitterness of the vermouth. And what cocktail isn’t made better by a garnish that functions as a snack? It’s hard to go wrong with Still & Barrel’s menu, but the Invitation Only hits just right.
Sara Crocker
Pollo Croquettes at Restaurant Progress
702 W. Montecito Ave.
As if we needed more proof, a recent dinner at Restaurant Progress made it clear why chef and owner TJ Culp nabbed a semifinalist nod for Best Chef: Southwest in January. From start to finish, the team curated a charming experience at the twee Melrose bistro. And although each course proved praiseworthy, it was the plate we added at the server’s suggestion that stood out as a favorite. The Pollo Croquettes are essentially elevated chicken nuggets, in a delightful, refreshing Eurocentric presentation. The croquettes boast a shatteringly crisp crust that protects a juicy, meaty center. What could be a heavy dish gets freshness from a small salad of shaved fennel, mint and parsley, and a luscious herb aioli. Those croquettes, paired with Progress’ stacked endive Caesar, make for a savory one-two punch to open the meal.
Tirion Boan
Yakisoba at Uppercut
455 N. Third St., #190
Tucked inside the downtown Phoenix steakhouse Cleaverman, Uppercut serves just 16 customers at a time. Described by its owner as a “temple to beef,” the exclusive new concept serves 17 courses omakase style, with some form of beef incorporated into every dish. Many of the bites could be included on this list, but one that stood just above the rest was Uppercut’s Yakisoba. The course starts with tallow foam, topped with tender noodles and rich XO sauce made with 30-day dry-aged beef. On top, orange uni and green chives bring a pop of color. The dish eats like the most savory Bolognese you’ve ever tried and left us scooping up every noodle.
Tirion Boan
Banana pudding cannoli at Papa Paul’s
118 N. Old Litchfield Road, Litchfield Park
After enjoying a fresh salad and crisp thin-crust pizzas at Litchfield Park staple Papa Paul’s, something sweet called our names. When the banana pudding cannoli hit the table, one bite left us asking why we had never had this combination before. Sweet, creamy banana pudding added a touch of nostalgic Americana to the classic Sicilian dessert. And the buttery cannoli shell acted as an elevated stand-in for the typical Nilla Wafers. The whole thing was drizzled with a salty caramel sauce and Nilla Wafer crumbles, creating a bite that would satisfy anyone from picky kids to discerning adults.
Sara Crocker
Embers Chocolate Brownie at Tandy’s
2320 E. Osborn Road
A visit to Tandy’s, the midtown restaurant and chocolaterie from chef Tandy Peterson, made the case that cacao can cut across cocktails, savory dishes and, naturally, desserts in unifying and sometimes surprising ways. There’s a knockout negroni, smart bread service and an earthy, smoky mole among Tandy’s dinner offerings. Yet, perhaps the most understood and expected dish, the Embers Chocolate Brownie, raised the most eyebrows at our table. That’s because this isn’t a fudgy, death-by-chocolate kind of torte. Instead, Peterson and her team use the familiar treat as a way to showcase the versatility and complexity of chocolate. The brownie features a delicate crumb and citrusy, floral notes, which get enhanced by baked-in pistachios and the vanilla ice cream scooped on top. Instead of being overwhelmingly decadent, Tandy’s brownie presents a new example of what this nostalgic bake can be, and we’ll be back to order another.
