Valley burger joint’s most ‘overlooked’ option is a veggie masterpiece

At most carnivore-focused restaurants, offering an option for non-meat eaters is an obligatory afterthought. And it’s often treated as such with frozen patties made in bulk from a distributor or mainstream meat substitutes doing the heavy lifting. 

But Bad Jimmy’s chef and owner James Piazza took a different approach when developing a veggie burger for his succinct menu known for craveable, all-Arizona beef smashed burgers. 

And, like every other item served at his burgers-and-cocktails hotspot, that did not mean taking the easy route. 

“We didn’t want it to be something that we buy or faux meat like the Beyond (Beef), or even your typical black bean type burger that is really common,” says Piazza, who came up with the recipe when opening his first brick-and-mortar location in downtown Phoenix in 2023. “We wanted to put a little more intention into it and make something that we like as well.” 

After two weeks of trial, error and countless tastings, Piazza came up with his own creative spin that yields a super flavorful and savory burger with an audible crunchy exterior. It offers a similar satisfaction to the crispy edges of the beef smashburger, but without the smash. Or beef. 

And because it’s packed with protein and fiber, it’s more filling and satisfying than one would expect from a meat-free patty. 

So far, however, it’s managed to mostly fly under the radar. 

“I don’t know if that many people know about it,” Piazza says. “We’re a burger spot, so I think it gets overlooked.”

Called “Where’s the Beef?” on the menu, the patty is made with soy-based chorizo, chickpeas, roasted carrots, sauteed onion and just enough white wine to deglaze the pan. The ingredients are fashioned into a hockey puck-like shape. 

Next, they are dipped in a tempura-style batter composed of all-purpose flour, cornstarch and sparkling water. But not just any bubbly water. It comes from the restaurant’s Hoshizaki Toki highball machine, which is used in making the Toki Highball on the cocktail menu. This high-pressure specialized dispenser produces a sparkling water that packs twice as much carbonation, Piazza explains. 

Before it’s fried, each patty gets dredged in a panko and parsley mixture and is cooked to order. Finally, deep fried until a picturesque golden brown, the patties are then placed on a potato bun with pickles, shredded lettuce and a cold slice of American cheese. It’s dressed with a housemade honey mustard that incorporates Japanese Kewpie mayo, which brings tang and umami to the party. 

Although the cheese gently warms as it sits on the patty, not melting the slice is another intentional move by Piazza and his team, who liked the texture contrast it created. 

“We would eat it with the cold cheese and say, ‘Yeah, we like that one,’” Piazza recalls. 

Before the burger hits the bun and gets the full accoutrement treatment, it is vegan. Piazza is able to accommodate fully plant-based customers by subbing out the bun with a lettuce wrap, and swapping out the cheese and honey mustard for non-dairy toppings like mustard, ketchup or pickles. 

As many as 100 “Where’s the Beef?” burgers are sold daily across Bad Jimmy’s four locations in Phoenix, Scottsdale and Tempe. 

Piazza’s preferred way to enjoy it is as it is on the menu. But he has his second favorite method. 

“It defies the purpose, but adding bacon to it is really good,” Piazza says. 

The inspiration for the veggie burger came from New York City chef Brooks Headley, a friend of Piazza’s who is a James Beard Award winner and helms the James Beard-nominated restaurant Superiority Burger, lauded for its mostly vegan menu. 

“What impressed me was the intention that was put into it and that it’s not your average vegetarian-style burger. That’s what inspired me to do something on my own too,” says Piazza, whose version uses a different process, filling and frying method than Headly’s.

He admits it’s a laborious process, “like any good thing.” But it’s no different than Piazza’s other menu items that feature in-house made rubs and sauces, wings that are marinated, smoked and fried and creamy soft serve finished with Pizzeria Bianco’s extra virgin olive oil and sea salt. 

“We do very simple things the right way and we put a lot of work into making it right all the time,” Piazza says. “I would hope that people understand that we have that standard.”

Bad Jimmy’s beef burgers will always capture the spotlight. But positive feedback from Piazza’s carnivorous and plant-based customers alike affirms that his vegetarian offering is well worth the work. 

“We put so much intention into it and I’m glad that people like it,” Piazza says. “I hope that more people continue to find out about it.”

Bad Jimmy’s

108 E. Pierce St.
505 W. University Drive, Tempe
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