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Jackie Mercandetti

Autumn Court Chinese Restaurant

Same food, different location from the old-school-cool space in a former IHOP on Central Avenue that evoked Roman Polanski's Chinatown in decor and comestibles. Alas, the kitchen at the Central Avenue locale fell victim to a fire in late '05, closing the place for the next year. The new spot looks more like a Swiss chalet from some Pink Panther flick than an eatery plucked from the pages of Raymond Chandler or Dashiell Hammett. But the service is friendly, and the Szechuan-Mandarin-Cantonese menu features such crowd-pleasers as egg foo young, lo mein, kung pao chicken, and pot stickers. Nothing fancy. Just solid neighborhood Chinese fare in comfy, eye-friendly quarters.

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