Hearth '61

When you enter the Valley's scattered hotel-and-resort enclave of finer dining, you enter a different world. One of the great fixtures and masters of resort cooking in Arizona, Charles Wiley, has traveled this side of our restaurant culture for decades. These days, he captains the kitchen in Mountain Shadows: Hearth '61. The beauty of Hearth '61 is that it ensconces you in an elegant, vanished midcentury world of old, polished Arizona comfort. Somehow, not breaking this enchantment, the food is New American with an emphasis on dramatic plating and the restaurant's namesake hearth. From the hearth come flatbreads smothered with seasonal produce and playful touches, like artichoke relish and smoked cheddar. Thoughtful, refreshing elements pervade the menu and change over time. A pork chop is embellished with spicy peaches and beer mustard. Roast chicken goes nuts with pistachio mole. Cavatelli in hearty Bolognese stays more traditional, though lemon ricotta dolloped in the dead center leans modern. If you're a fan of eating at the bar, the one in Hearth '61 is dynamite. The tight, U-shaped counter is paneled with sleek wood and edged by blue-upholstered chairs. It has the same timelessness as the restaurant, only with a bit more enigma and electricity. New Normal: Hearth '61 offers dine-in service and curbside pickup. Reservations can be made via OpenTable.