The REZ an urban eatery

Jacob Tyler Dunn

If you spot the sign for the The Rez, an Urban Eatery, out in the wild, reach for your cash and head for this roaming restaurant. You can sometimes find The Rez in downtown Phoenix during the late hours, even till 4 a.m. on weekends, or possibly at a festival, farmers market, or special event where food vendors are crammed into neat little rows. The Rez offers Navajo cuisine, food stand-style, served by Renetto-Mario Etsitty — whose resume includes Tertio Wine Bar chef and ASU fine arts graduate, among other things. Etsitty is known for frying up Navajo tacos, and plating Navajo burgers, chilaquiles with blue corn chips, tamales, crepes, stew, and some incredible frybread. (Vegan options are also plentiful.) The aguas frescas are a signature dish here; flavors include a prickly pear that packs a deep magenta punch and a green flavor that’s a complex mix of honeydew, basil, pineapple, and jalapeno.
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